It debuted three years after the Royal Oak, before the Nautilus, Ingenueur, and Overseas. So why doesn’t the Girard Perlegueux Reureat, a highly relevant 1970s watch, receive the same appreciation level as other luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets? Not only is the Genta name missing, as its current overseas predecessor, the 222, is a non-genta design. 222 by German designer Jorg Heisek, an anonymous “GP” employee who created the 1975 bimetallic quartz chronometer, a tonneau-shaped watch with an octagonal bezel, and an ancestor of admirers. did. The answer lies in the reputation of “GP”. The brand’s recent history has not been as stable as its competition. However, if you try hard to forget everything about it and focus on the watch, your perception changes. That’s how I approached the two versions of the 38mm Girard Perlegou Reureat in steel.
Artist unknown. This is not compared to having a signature on a Rembrandt Van Lysine painting. For a long time, a common belief was that Adolfo Natalini (1941–2020) – the man who co-founded the architectural firm Supersdio, became a member of the architecture school of Pistoa and was a pioneer of the radical architect movement. I became one of them. 1960’s and 70’s – Designed with praise. But thanks to WatchProsite, we now know that the eternally obliging Girard-Perregaux employee was responsible for the watch design that would become the winner.
Girard-Perregaux Leureiati 38mm steel is a sight to behold
Perhaps because I have been interested in haute horlogerie for decades, the name Girard Perlegaud evokes thoughts about the highest echelons of watchmaking. I’m looking at brands comparable to Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and even Patek Philippe. How times have changed for haute horlogerie. Grand Complications is no longer the watch that people dream of. Instead, luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets from the mentioned watchmaking brands are the main objects of desire. This desire is driven by resale value, not watch interest, and social media posts. And since the rules of money, it affects the popularity and status of watches. If you judge a watch by its resale value, you can ignore its appearance. But if you’re looking to keep the dollar signs out of sight, the Girard-Perlegault Leureiato 38mm is a sight to behold as the steel 38mm is a pain in the ass.
A size that forgets all other sizes
A while back I did some hands-on with the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 and loved it. On the big side, it has good proportions, but the chronograph complexity looks towards the home of the Reuleite environment, and the use of titanium works well with the watch’s design. Still, without exception, I prefer time-only versions of sports watches with integrated bracelets and a (semi-)angular look. Furthermore, size is also of the essence. A watch with the above design does not require large dimensions to make its presence known.
The current incoming collection consists of 38 references, 25 of which are part of the classic subcollection. The majority have a case diameter of 42mm. The Chronograph version gets away with it, but I feel the openwork version and the reference with the closed dial are too much. For reference, the original 1975 quartz watch was a small piece with a case diameter of only 30mm. Over time, the size of the winners has grown, but it makes sense that 42mm is pushing it. The Raureato Absolute 8Tech with its 44mm carbon/titanium composite case is what the Royal Oak Oak Shore is to the Royal Oak, but it’s probably not running that either. Anyway, back to the 38mm receiving model with a sage green or midnight blue dial (€15,700 / US$14,900).
Observe the “hobnail effect”
The Winner’s most straightforward element isn’t the layered bezel with its circular octagonal top, nor the sleek, polished case sides. It’s also not an H-Link bracelet that transitions seamlessly from the case and wears very well despite the fairly simple butterfly clasp. Rather, it’s the dial that gives the Laureato 38mm a very distinct look. The sage green and midnight blue colors also display subtle hints of gray and have a sophisticated Claus de Paris pattern. and a hobnail texture consisting of small pyramids that change color subtly and dynamically.
Although very small, the three-dimensional elements of the miniature are a big factor in how the Winner 38mm presents itself. The rhodium-plated, polished, and applied indexes and hands are all treated with a significant amount of Super-LumiNova, providing a sophisticated contrast. At the same time, the shiny nature of the indices and hands complements the sophistication of the watch. The version with a Sage Green dial is subtly different from the midnight blue version with its cool tundra gray hue. For example, it has a gold-plated GP logo and central seconds hand, adding luxurious warmth and a bit of contrast.
Laureato most moving side 38mm steel
From a movement perspective, the Laureato 38mm is not the most interesting watch in the world, but that’s the case with most three luxury sports watches. The in-house GP03300 caliber is an automatic 25.95×3.36mm movement consisting of 218 parts. This is the flagship of GP’s caliber collection. Apart from the central hours, minutes, and seconds hands, there is a date function, a 4Hz beat rate, and a 46-hour power reserve. The contrasting 18k rose gold sapphire window on the caseback shows the vibrating weight. If you look closely, you’ll also see blue screws, a straight, circular Côte de Genève finish, and a polished chamfer.
I’m wearing the 38mm version of the Steel Laureato three-hander
When you get the 38mm out of the box, it looks on the small side. You immediately notice the level of finish as the watch feels smooth and has a nice sheen to it. Once on your wrist, any initial doubts about whether the watch is too small are quickly dispelled. The tonneau-shaped case proportions with a soft-shaped bezel and seamless integrated bracelet create a look that leaves nothing to be desired. This size makes this accolade equally sporty and classic. Because it’s elegant and gorgeous. Small and discrete enough to disappear under the cuff, yet displaying charismatic confidence when worn visibly.
Final Words on Girard-Perregaux Raureato 38mm and Unsung Hero
The Raureato 38mm was the main focus of the article, but after wearing the watch, the watch’s anonymous designer returned to my mind. The Winner isn’t as edgy as the Royal Oak, lacks the slight quirkiness of the Nautilus, and isn’t quite as bold and brash as overseas. Although close to the introverted ingéneur, laureates are smoother and more sophisticated. The winner also has a balanced design that is easy on the eyes. We have to give kudos to the anonymous genius who made it.
It doesn’t matter that the watch doesn’t have a famous name attached to it. You can judge a watch based on its timeless and classy design without clouding your judgment. And if you still need a story for context and confidence to convey yourself or your peers, the story of the unsung hero who forever remains a mystery will certainly stand the test of time. Masu. How the award winner got its name is an anecdote for another day…
