zach blas
As Time+Tide’s unlicensed New York-born editor, I’m honestly not a car guy. I’ve never watched a second of an episode of Top Gear, and I don’t feel any excitement when the trailer for the new season of Drive to Survive is released. I can’t tell you who won the last Grand Prix, and it’s bullshit for me to answer exactly when someone asks me when the last big race was held. The only reason I have some knowledge of F1 is because watches and cars are very closely related, even though I’m in the watch industry and don’t have a strong fascination with cars. . So, after reading all this, you might think that I am completely unqualified to talk about this watch…in fact, the opposite is true. I am somewhat removed from the F1 world so I can have an opinion on the new IWC pilot watch mark. XX Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula 1 Team Reference. The IW328210 (And Breathe) is based entirely on the merits of the watch itself.
I have to say that when news of this watch first broke, I was very tempted. Normally I would never reveal such a verdict so early in an article, but I mean…come on. I think the title conveys that here anyway. This article is not about whether I like the watch or not, but about why I like it and why. Looking at IWC releases over the past few years, this is the most tempting I’ve ever been to add my first modern IWC to my collection.
Firstly, the Petronas Green brand color (which has become Mercedes’ de facto team color), this kind of electric, turquoise green adjacent to Tiffany Blue, always caught my eye. When the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41, Mercedes’ team watch, was released in 2022, I remember thinking that it might be my first IWC. However, the distance between the lugs of 50mm was terrifying to me at the time.. Now, if you watched my Most Worn Watches video in 2024, you know that I’m currently debating whether or not to buy a Tentagraph with a 51.5mm lug distance. So concerns that the Chronograph 41 is too big now seem irrational. Camber and case shape have a lug-to-lug relationship, but it’s not just a matter of measurements. In 2023, that Chronograph 41 was followed by another Mercedes collaboration, the Performance Chronograph 41. However, while it looks great, the splash of color is a little too subtle for me.
Of all IWC models, the Mark lineup has always been the most likely entry point for me, even though the Chronograph and Big Pilot are IWC staples. I’ve been considering something like the 36mm Mark XVIII for a long time because I love compact cases in classic sizes. However, since I have more bland black and white pieces in my collection like the Submariner and Explorer, such an addition felt a bit too repetitive. We also felt that both the specifications of the movement (which has not yet reached its current 50-hour power reserve) were important. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 Ref. IW324010) and a depth rating of less than 100 meters was not ideal.
This is why I was so happy to see the IWC Mark XX make its debut. This model introduced a sophisticated case with a 5-day caliber, different dial color configurations, IWC’s EasX-Change strap system, and a more compact lug-two. -Lug span that is also 100 meters waterproof. I remember a minority in the watch community hurling niche criticism at the Mark XX, but the majority were just as excited about its release as I was.
With a diameter of 40mm, thickness of 10.6mm, and lug-to-lug length of 49mm, the proportions of this pilot’s watch are quite pleasing. Adding a millimeter to the diameter and a few millimeters to the thickness results in similar dimensions to the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake that I often wear. The reason I also mention Snowflake is because there is one reference to this new Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula 1 Team. The IW328210 (what a long name) is also made of titanium and is grade 5 to be exact.
As I mentioned earlier, I’ve been wary of incorporating more sterile white and black dials into my collection in recent years. But the Mark XX’s more colorful optional sunburst finish, while handsome, doesn’t offer the same aviator vibe as the matte dial, at least in my opinion. So I hit an impasse. Fast forward to today, and my collection no longer includes a Rolex Submariner or Explorer, and I no longer own a watch with a black dial and white indexes. At least not the watches I try to get my hands on on a regular basis. We’ll probably break up. After all, this is what watch collecting is all about, right? Filling one hole opens another (which you probably don’t need to fill, but inevitably you’ll want to).
So why now? Why this mark XX? Well, I like the modernity of this watch and the lightweight nature of the titanium. I also like the purpose this watch would serve if I owned it: a go-to watch for summer days, perfect for the beach, etc. We love that the classic matte black dial has a Petronas Green twist that adds flavor and visual appeal. It’s not military focused, but it’s still rooted in the military the way I want it to be. It’s more me. As a side note, it’s nice to see IWC pay attention to details, like matching the color of the date window to the Petronas green accents on the dial (as they did with the Pilot Chronograph 41 edition). Also, since I often wear all or almost all black, I love how this watch blends in with my outfit while still being eye-catching with just the right amount of color.
Featuring a 5-day automatic caliber, this watch is an exceptional watch in an era where 3-day power reserves are more common and more basic 38-42 hour power reserves are commercialized in the current market. feel competitive. After considering all the above, the last thing to evaluate is the price. Considering IWC and the brand’s level of competition, $6,100 seems like a fair price for a 5 Days Titanium watch from one of the most famous and storied brands in watchmaking. It strikes a nice balance between the brand’s historical sterility (which, admittedly, has been greatly undermined by recent colored ceramic products) and color play.
I’d also like to add that, based on my reaction to this release, I don’t think IWC needs the F1 partnership as a catalyst or excuse to inject a more playful side into the Mark XX. Again, the colored sunburst dial is great, but I’d prefer IWC to use colored lacquered letters that aren’t too reflective, with a matte sensibility that allows them to inject such bold color into the mix. I hope to shift my focus to the board. You can also imagine a world where the ceramic created by IWC for the case could be utilized for the dial, providing a pop of matte color to properly bring the Mark XX to life.
IWC Pilot Watch Mark XX Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula 1 Team ref. IW328210 price and availability
The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team is available now. Price: $6,100
Brand IWC Model Mark XX Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team Reference IW328210 Case Dimensions 40mm (D) x 10.6mm (T) x 49mm (LTL) Case Material Grade 5 Titanium Water Resistance 100 meters, screw-down crown Crystal Sapphire dial matte black, Petronas green accents Lugs Width 20mm Bracelet and Strap Petronas Green EasX-Change rubber, titanium pin buckle Movement Caliber 32111, Val Fleurier Baumatic base, automatic power reserve 120 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date Availability Current price $6,100
