Borna Bosniak
A huge banner on TAG Heuer’s website reads ‘WE ARE BACK’, proudly announcing the brand’s return as F1’s title sponsor and solidifying its position as a motorsport watch brand. There is. This was a big change, planned by LVMH taking over from Rolex in October 2024, but for watch fans, including myself, some watches commemorating this event felt sorely missing. It is something. LVMH Watch Week 2025 has kicked off and TAG Heuer has taken the covers off its all-new F1 Chronograph, a watch that will likely be plastered all over F1 advertising this season. So far the collection has revolved primarily around quartz, but with the previous generation being withdrawn in collaboration with Red Bull, it’s time for five new automatic references to enter the fray, one of which is It will probably end up being worn on wrists around the world today. champion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCSyzmL-hI
dial
For the four regular production models, the dial brief was deceptively simple. The typeface you see on a sports car speedometer is actually taken out of the entire instrument panel and pasted onto the dial. Color-coded hands represent the chronograph function, while a running seconds sneaks in at 9 o’clock, balanced by branding and a date window at 3 o’clock. Available in red, blue, or electric yellow against a black background. So if you’re a fan of Ferrari, Williams, Alpine or even Aston Martin, you’ll probably want to have an F1 watch in your team’s colors. Other than the color highlights, the dial is very simple, with only the raised edges of the sub-dials giving it some depth, although I’m curious to see that the bezel says “SPEED” instead of “TACHYMETER.” I have to say that I like it. Simple but effective.
Blue might be a good choice for the Super Max Super Fun™, but TAG Heuer offers an easier option with the Oracle Red Bull Racing Edition. Of course, this comes along with the brand’s sponsorship of the Austrian racing team, and despite TAG Heuer sponsoring the entire show, we don’t see this partnership ending anytime soon. There’s a lot more going on with the dial. The subdials are placed on a checkered blue dial, with a bright yellow central seconds hand reminiscent of the nose cone of all Red Bull liveries, and a forged carbon bezel instead of aluminum.
It looks pretty busy now, but I think TAG Heuer managed to pull it all together. The color combination is reminiscent of the current generation of F1 cars. More exposed carbon helps meet minimal weight requirements in place of “heavy” paint. One thing I would like to change is the crowded text around the date window. I know TAG Heuer had to put the logo and model name somewhere, but I wonder if that was the best placement for everything.
case
The dial isn’t the only thing new in the updated Formula 1. In the current catalog, all Formula 1 References (automatic or not) have steel cases, but the 2025 automatic model features grade 2 titanium and comes with the option of DLC. Coating is also available upon request. This is a welcome change and an important one that justifies the price increase (more on that later). The new case material also includes a new design with an integrated bracelet and large rectangular pushers, which are well integrated into the overall case design and push the F1 collection in a more modern direction. Depending on the colorway, that highlight color is also incorporated into the case design, connecting the aluminum bezel and titanium case to the edge of the black crown. These aren’t divers, but the screw-down crown and 200 meter water resistance make them perfect for a dip. Like, say, a celebratory jump into a pool in Monaco?
Thanks to its titanium construction, the case is more angular and lighter, but what remains the same is that the F1 is a big watch. At 44mm in diameter and 14.1mm thick, you literally get a lot of watches. It’s relatively compact at 47.3mm lug-to-lug width, but the integrated rubber strap offsets that compact dimension. Therefore, the new Formula 1 is recommended for people with a wrist diameter of 17cm or more, or for those who prefer an oversized fit.
strap
TAG Heuer has received a lot of praise (including from yours truly) for its overall improvements, and this is clearly something the brand applies to more than cases and movements. The new Formula 1 has a great rubber strap and walks the line between comfort and structure. This is also where we see more color highlights, this time matching the dial along the sides of the strap and ending with a steel pin buckle that matches the finish of the case.
Even though the new Formula 1 is technically an integrated design, if you’re looking to experiment with different straps, you might actually be able to get away with it. The strap widens as it reaches the lugs, but even though it’s squeezed into a narrow lug width, it does have a standard spring bar (unfortunately not a quick release), which makes it easier to see if this watch is compatible with an aftermarket strap. I don’t know how to combine them.
movement
Until now, the Formula 1 collection has been dominated by quartz movements, with only a few automatic models in the lineup. The new Formula 1 chronograph continues to use the Caliber 16 found in its predecessor, which is essentially the ubiquitous ETA/Valjoux 7750. This is a proven automatic chronograph caliber that vibrates at 4Hz and has a power reserve of up to 42 hours. For this new watch, TAG Heuer has chosen to use a heavy case back with a checkered flag motif, a decision I fully support in this case.
judgment
The conclusion here is very simple. The new title sponsorship will naturally mean TAG Heuer will be cleaning up its huge F1 collection. As the rest of the brand moves upmarket, it’s time for its most affordable collection to follow suit, with a nearly $1,000 increase in price over the previous Auto Chrono model. The good thing is that the case design and materials are much improved compared to those. In my opinion, it has a much less anonymous design that is recognizable as an F1 rather than just a sporty chronograph. Of course, it would be preferable to use TAG Heuer’s in-house movement TH20, but that would mean the F1 would be competing with the Carrera, and I don’t think that will happen anytime soon. But the Glassbox is about $1,000 more expensive, so the comparison shows what a great value it is.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph Price and Availability
TAG Heuer Formula 1 will be launched at LVMH Watch Week 2025, but availability of specific models will vary throughout the year. The Formula 1 Red, DLC Titanium-filled Red and Blue references will go on sale in March, the Red Bull Team Edition will go on sale a month later in April, but the lime-tinged reference will be the last and will go on sale in June. I am planning to do so. Price: CHF 4,600 (~USD 5,100, Titanium) CHF 4,800 (~USD 5,300, DLC Titanium), CHF 5,300 (~USD 5,800, Oracle Red Bull Racing)
Brand TAG Heuer Model Formula 1 Chronograph
Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing Reference CBZ2082.FT8096
CBZ2085.FT8093
CBZ2084.FT8097
CBZ2086.FT8098
CBZ2080.FT8091 Case Dimensions 44mm (D) x 14.1mm (T) x 47.3mm (LTL) Case Material Grade 2 Titanium
Grade 2 titanium with DLC coating
Grade 2 titanium, forged carbon (Red Bull) Water resistance 200 meters Crystal Sapphire front and back Dial Black opaline, color highlights (Formula 1)
Blue opaline, checkered pattern (Red Bull) Lug width Integrated strap Color-matched rubber strap, steel pin buckle Movement Caliber 16, ETA 7750 base, automatic power reserve 42 hours Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph Availability 3 Moon (CBZ2082) .FT8096, CBZ2085.FT8093, and CBZ2084.FT8097)
April (CBZ2080.FT8091)
June (CBZ2086.FT8098) Price CHF 4,600 (Titanium)
4,800 Swiss Francs (DLC Titanium)
CHF 5,300 (Oracle Red Bull Racing)
