[F]Back to basics: Purchasing a used watch

Buying a used watch can be daunting at first, especially if you’re new to the game. I’ve read horror stories about fake watches and watches with the wrong parts. And you’re not the first person to find yourself in a situation where your watch doesn’t work properly. For many people, this is a good enough reason not to buy anything but a new watch from an authorized retailer. But you may be cutting yourself short there. Buying second-hand is an attractive option for several reasons, but only if you are confident in your purchase. In this installment of Back to Basics, we aim to boost that confidence with some practical pointers.

Fratello has a wide readership. Some are lifelong collectors, while others are just stepping into the world of watches for the first time. This article, like all “back to basics” articles, is aimed at the latter group. So if you are already experienced and comfortable buying used watches, this may not be for you. However, if you’re just starting out and could use some guidance, I hope this helps.

Why buy a used watch?

As mentioned earlier, there are several good reasons to buy a used watch instead of a new one. The obvious factor is price. There are many exceptions, but in general, used watches are (somewhat) more affordable than new watches. This is especially important if you might sell your watch in the future. Your tastes may change, especially if you are new to watch collecting. To be honest, I think most enthusiasts sell their watches from time to time. It really helps you keep enjoying this expensive hobby if you don’t get hit hard every time.

Another reason to buy used is availability. It is possible that the watch you are looking for is out of stock and unavailable. In this case, you will definitely pay a premium over retail stores. Please note that the value of a used watch may decrease if it becomes available at a dealer in the future. Therefore, this is something you should only do if money is not your object or if you want a particular watch more than anything else. Many collectors, including myself, refuse to pay retail prices for current watches out of principle.

Of course, there may be times when the watch you want is no longer available because it is no longer in production. The market for used watches like this is a little more predictable and reliable. My advice to budding enthusiasts is to not play the hype game. Your best bet is to purchase used samples of readily available or discontinued models.

I have some homework to do

When buying a used watch, knowledge gives you confidence. Honestly, the research is probably the most enjoyable part of the purchase. That is the main purpose of the watch hobby. If you don’t enjoy it, I would say that at best you can call yourself an owner of multiple watches rather than an enthusiast or collector. So who am I to make the rules?

It’s good to know what variations exist for the watch you plan to buy and how to recognize them. Helps identify common problems with originality. For example, if you know that this watch had a dial with tritium luminescence until 1998, you can be sure that the 1995 Luminova example indicates that the dial was replaced. For most watches, you can easily find such details online. Armed with this knowledge, your chances of making a good purchase will dramatically increase.

Exciting moment of unboxing

Where to buy used watches

As is often the case, when buying a used watch, a good mantra is to “buy from the seller.” You can also buy from private sellers, but you need to know what you’re getting into. Dealers of used and vintage goods often have useful knowledge and experience. Still, we often come across incorrect information in listings from experienced dealers. People make mistakes, so it pays to do your research.

Chrono24 is often a good place to start. See what’s available. You can filter results for dealers only, and the platform offers buyer protection. When ordering from overseas, please note that import duties and VAT/local taxes may be levied upon import. This may help bridge the gap between properties closer to home and properties further away. I always like to check reviews left by previous clients. They can often tell you how the seller will handle any problems that may arise. It’s reassuring to read about their prompt refunds and proactive stance on fixing technical issues.

Alternatively, for some people, forums are a good place to buy. These online communities are often very close-knit and rely on personal relationships and trust. With actively contributing members like our Daan, we can form a great trading platform.

Image: Vintage clock in Amsterdam

Certified used item

Many brands now offer certified pre-owned watches through boutiques and authorized dealers. This seal of approval from the brand itself is reassuring. At least it guarantees that the brand will recognize the watch as their own and will repair it later when you send it to them.

What exactly they promise varies from brand to brand. Please note that this does not mean that the watch is completely original. For example, a watch manufactured in 2010 with a replacement (service) dial installed in 2016 will be certified as completely authentic. However, from a pure collector’s point of view, it is no longer completely original. Especially when it comes to vintage, not all brands are very good at making good decisions regarding the dating accuracy of their parts. A genuine vintage dealer may be better at that.

In any case, certified pre-owned watches tend to be significantly more expensive than non-certified alternatives. Once you’re able to make your own decisions, it may not add as much value anymore. However, if you don’t want to do all the research and homework, you can purchase a certified used item and pick it up quickly and with relative peace of mind.

“Recently checked by our watchmaker”

Of course, you want your watch to work properly. The maintenance required every 5-10 years (depending on your watch) can be expensive. Therefore, it is worth knowing whether the watch you are planning to purchase has been recently maintained. If the list doesn’t mention it, ask for details about who did what and when. For example, the recent service paper provided by the brand itself is a value-added feature. If the seller doesn’t know, assume the service will be required for your safety. If the watchmaker discovers an abnormality beyond routine maintenance, they can negotiate return arrangements.

One common expression is “inspected by our watchmakers.” This is why you should be careful. It sounds good, but it doesn’t really mean much. Perhaps a simple visual inspection was performed and the watch was placed on a timegrapher. If no major issues are found, the watch is considered ready for sale. The watch may still need repair soon. That may be fine, but the price needs to reflect that.

Good dealers will offer warranties on their products. If you discover within 1-2 years that your watch does not work as per specifications, we will fix the problem for free. This is often worth the slightly higher price you might pay at such dealers.

Image: Bachman & Shah

Order of originality, condition, and set contents

When looking for a used watch, the first thing I look for is originality. Are all parts original and compatible with the era of the watch? Once again, there is no faster way to do this than to do your research. Replacement handsets and bezel inserts may not be an issue, but it’s something to be aware of. Only if you know, can you make a prudent decision about it.

Next, let’s take a look at the condition of the watch. This includes not only the aforementioned maintenance, but also the physical condition of the product. Is there any visual damage? Look out for scratches, holes, dents, chips in the crystal, discoloration, stretching on the bracelet, etc. Also look at the dial carefully. Damage to the dial lacquer may indicate that there has been water ingress at some point, for example. Obviously you don’t want a broken watch. However, there are individual differences in whether or not you can tolerate some damage. Also develop an eye for refinishing before you buy. Poor polishing can ruin a beautiful case or bracelet. You can avoid problems if you know what to look for. Click here to learn how to refinish.

The last thing to consider is the set contents. When I was dealing, I noticed that first-time buyers especially valued boxes and documents. If you like it for collectible reasons, that’s fine. If you need them for authenticity reasons, remember that certificates are much easier to fake than watches. However, a good complete set is more appealing than a single watch, and the price will reflect that.

Image: GC – Bergamo

buy a used watch

That’s really all there is to it. If you keep these few very basic tips in mind, a used watch can be a smart purchase. Let someone else take the initial depreciation hit and the pain of the first small scratches.

However, there are some companies in this world that cannot be trusted. And there are also counterfeit and poorly maintained watches. However, it would be a shame to let this deter you from entering the market. As long as you do your research carefully, you shouldn’t have any problems. Certainly the benefits may outweigh the challenges.

Do you have any advice for buying used watches safely? Let us know in the comments below. With a community as experienced as our reader base, there’s a lot we can learn from each other.