Every journey has an end, prompting us to embark on a new adventure. Today we celebrate #TBT, one of the longest running columns in Fratello’s history. After a long 10 years, we’re pleased to announce that Thursday’s Thoughts on Vintage Watches has been updated. Start a new retrospective series with the special barrel-shaped Galette chronograph.
Mike started #TBT in 2014. It was his words that made me glued to my computer every Thursday to explore famous and underrated vintage watches. Late one night in 2018, I found out that Mike had wandered into my town. Encouraged by my wife, I sent him a message. A few hours later, the three of us were in the pub talking about watches. I remember Mike asking, “Would you like to write an article for us?” as if it had just happened minutes ago.
new challenge
This question has been bothering me for weeks. I knew Mike was serious, so I put pen to paper. In January 2019, I wrote my first Fratello story about the beloved, strange, and underrated Venus 211 Big Date Chrono Movement. I joined the team of editors and carried the #TBT torch for another six years, and since then I’ve written over 400 watch articles, most of them about vintage watches. Simple.
Retrospective exhibition
From now on, I will continue talking about vintage watches in my retrospective column. As before, we will continue to mix up our content to always delight and surprise our customers. In addition to the timeless vintage stars, we also discover interesting complications from the past, as well as lesser-known but no less interesting watch brands and watches. Over the next few months, I plan to continue experimenting and publishing this format, and welcome new angles on the watches I’ve previously discussed.
Why Garret Watch?
When we were thinking about the watch that would kick off our Retrospective series, we wanted something special. Garrett holds a special place in my heart. That’s because we believe Galette is one of the greatest, most underrated and lesser-known watch brands. Over the decades, Garrett has introduced a fascinating line of chronographs, including many unique, memorable, or cult timepieces.
The second reason I chose this particular Galette model is because it embodies reminiscence for me. I’ll be honest: I don’t like barrel cases or cushion cases, so I ignored this model for years. It wasn’t until my Galette collection had grown significantly that the maximalist in me who wanted to own all the important Galette watches forced me to buy one. I didn’t expect to enjoy it, nor did I expect to wear it much. Honestly, I thought I’d never wear it again. I might have forgotten about it if it had the Valjoux movement, but I had to include it because it has such a strong EP. Today, when I look back at my expectations, they were all wrong.
my misunderstanding
No matter what great collectors whispered in my ear about cushion/barrel cases, I always saw them as a man without legs, a limbo watch. In my world, watches needed lugs. Otherwise, I thought it would be thick and unwieldy. No matter how many times I looked at the catalog photos or online listings, I thought this Galette chronograph was unwearable.
my eureka moment
I wanted to see my face when I wore it on my wrist. It’s surprisingly slim. The size is approximately 38 mm from east to west and 41 mm from north to south. For example, I don’t know the specific dimensions of Heuer’s “Orange Boy” or “Cifferre,” but I tried them, but they didn’t really fit me. I don’t think the brand Galette blindsided me. Because I was prepared not to wear it or like it.
Simply put, Heuer’s cushion-shaped cases didn’t work for me, but this case does. In the photo, this galette looks like it’s not as wearable as other similarly shaped watches, but it’s actually quite comfortable. Please give me a chance.
I really liked it
Once I overcame the seemingly insurmountable problems of the case, a visual paradise unfolded before me. This watch’s paving-like bluish-black dial structure is eye-catching. After spending hours observing it with the naked eye, you’ll eventually be able to take macro photographs that give you a microscopic view of even the most expensive sandpaper. The balance of colors in numerous elements, such as the telemetric and tachy scales, the central chronograph seconds hand or the main handset, is also a detail that pleases the visual instincts.
Prices for this barrel-shaped galette chronograph range from 4,500 euros to 8,000 euros. This is a fairly rare model. There are enough Galette chronographs with Excelsior Park to fill a year’s worth of articles. However, I believe there is only one barrel-shaped galette model equipped with the EP40-68 movement. It is also the only model among the Galette models that uses a Bakelite bezel like this, so it is a noteworthy element. Rotates in both directions, clicks precisely and stays securely in place. From a maneuverability point of view, it beats many modern divers in the 1,000-2,000 euro price range. The reflective effect of the glass is unparalleled, as is its shine under UV light.
Market diversity
If you like this model, you should know that there is also a panda version with black needles. According to my archives, the black dial version was first introduced in the 1972 Bennett catalog with the “old” Garrett logo. The white dial model with the Gallet by Racine logo first appeared in the 1973 catalog. Jules Racine chose this model as the hero watch for the cover of an eight-page catalog from around the same time.
Image: Pedro Matas, @tucayjordan
If you want a purebred specimen, you can also go a step further and find the brand Excelsior Park. These are even more difficult to obtain than the Gallet brand models. Also note that the EP model has a pulsation scale instead of a telemeter. It’s cleaner and nicer if you ask me, but it’s not the Gallet brand, which is much more important to me. Girard-Perregaux fans may also have a logo. I didn’t know that there was also a brand called Gruen that didn’t have taxis or telescales. Additionally, note that the bezel scaling is different between the GP and Gruen models. Pedro, thank you for collaborating on this market overview.
conclusion
I saw great potential in this Galette chronograph, but I hesitated for many years because I was too prejudiced against the case shape. The reasons I overcame my own irrationality are pretty funny, but I’m glad I allowed myself to wear this model on my wrist. Baby, who was supposed to sit in the clock corner, sees rays of sunlight here and there during the regular rotation of my galette clock. The 12-hour totalizer is a real game changer and makes it a real contender for the most demanding collectors. I don’t recommend this as your first Galette watch unless you’re a big fan of barrel cases. But if you already have some models and are thinking of another amazing model, this one will exceed all your expectations.
Pedro Hernández Matas, @tucayjordan
Vintage Galette Expert
I’m not a big fan of this case shape, so this isn’t my favorite Galette watch, but it has a place in my collection. What I love about this design is the interesting polish contrast between the sunburst on the top and the high polish on the sides. The design of the dial and hands is perfect, as are the luminous numerals on the bezel. This watch is equipped with the latest EP caliber 40-68, which to me is one of the best chrono movements ever made. If it’s simply smooth, reliable, and properly tuned, you could lose just a second over three days. From a quality and price point of view, all Garrett watches are underrated and undervalued.
Fred Mandelbaum, @watchfred
Vintage Breitling Expert and EP Enthusiast
This is an important model from one of my favorite brands, Excelsior Park. It represents the evolution of design from the late 1960s to the 1970s. If you’re wondering what I don’t like about it, it’s the shape of the case. To be honest, I don’t like watches like this, but as a completist who tries to own all related models of a particular brand or type of watch, it’s a “must have” for Excelsior Park addicts .
This particular model has excellent readability and functionality with both a taqui scale and a pulsating scale. My favorite detail is the recessed inverted panda subdial with strong graining and a chrome plated outer ring. The orange yacht minute counter accents shine beautifully, as does the orange luminous paddle chronograph seconds hand.
The real reason I collect these is the JB40-68 movement, the last of one of the finest chronograph calibers ever made. No other movement can match the easy, crisp feel of a chronograph.
