Borna Bosniak
New design-forward trends have emerged over the past year, and it’s no surprise to see design-forward microbrands release watches that push the envelope. Looking at echo/neutra’s previous releases (like the Cortina 1956 Chr0no and Chrono GMT), you might expect their dress watches to also adhere to a mid-century aesthetic. After all, some of the best dress watches of all time do just that. However, the Echo/Neutra Rivanera is not a 1950s-inspired dress watch. Its cold titanium edges and stark dial are a sharp contrast to the warm tones of midcentury modern, leaning more toward Eastern European prefab than the Eames House. So, with this kind of design in mind, can Ribanera deliver the dress watch experience you’re aiming for?
Industrial, rugged, or just plain rectangular?
When I first picked up the Rivanera, what immediately caught my attention was that the case felt really nice to the touch. Grade 5 titanium sandblasting has the texture of the finest sandpaper, and while it’s not unpleasant in any way, it’s certainly not your basic brushed surface. Looking down to the side, the only highlight of this matte material comes through the thin, polished grooves that run from the top of the lugs and bezel to the sides of the case. These bevels are often used as transitions between different surfaces, giving them a distinctive look. At Ribanera, they are the main event, framing and highlighting the rest of the design from every angle.
This, combined with the subtle recesses that separate the lugs and bezel, creates a very attractive minimalist design. Is it true brutalism? not much. But again, I wouldn’t call Ribanera an industrial product because its design is far from function-first. By processing the titanium surface instead of leaving it as is, we have carefully finished it into a beautiful surface reminiscent of Béton Brut. This is Brutalist enough for me, and more watches inspired by this idea will be added to the ever-growing list.
Full of presence
When you put on the Rivanera, the 40mm lug-to-lug length immediately feels larger. Thanks to the ultra-thin case of just 5.9 mm and completely flat case back, you won’t feel it wrapped around your wrist. At 27mm wide, it’s a little smaller than the Tank Must XL, but it feels about the same.
And speaking of the wearing experience, interestingly enough, Echo/Neutra includes two black leather straps with each Ribanera. One is pebbled calfskin and the other is Horween shell cordovan, both of which are of fairly high quality and come with a pin buckle that matches the case. The inclusion of two very similarly styled straps doesn’t really bother me as the 20mm lug width makes it versatile enough for other watches in the collection, but it doesn’t make sense to me. What I don’t understand is that the straps aren’t fast. -Release, something pretty standard across the (microbrand) industry. This is actually the only objective drawback of Ribanera, but I’m not sure it’s enough to deter me personally. However, your mileage may vary.
round peg in square hole
The reason why Echo/Neutra was able to significantly slim down the Rivera can be seen through the round sapphire caseback. The Peseux 7001 is one of the most highly regarded entry-level manual movements for its longevity, precision, and thinness. The Rivanera beats at a regular 3Hz beat rate and has a power reserve of up to 42 hours. The scrubs are also doing pretty well, but I feel like echo/neutra missed an opportunity to do something special here. I’ve already seen people complaining about having a round movement in a rectangular case. I personally don’t mind it, but I think the unique way it’s decorated ties the movement in nicely with the rest of the case is really cool. Admittedly, such custom work would likely increase the cost significantly (Farlan Mari’s Disco Volante is an example), so leaving it as is is completely understandable.
lastly
The easiest way to conclude this is to answer the question posed in the headline. In short, the answer is a resounding “yes.” The Rivanera has a well-thought-out minimalist design, an ultra-slim case, and is reasonably priced for the movement it contains. But like the best watches out there, it’s more than just specs on paper. First, the case is made of titanium, which not only matches the aesthetic spirit of the watch, but also emphasizes its slimness and suppleness when worn on the wrist. The faceted crown fits the straight-cut edges, yet provides plenty of grip when manually winding. This is often forgotten on dress watches, where the crown should be as discreet as possible.
But this isn’t a traditional dress watch at all either. I mean, look. The grained titanium surface is a far cry from the luxurious, shiny polish of a precious metal case, and it also wears with much more presence than its dimensions would suggest. So is it the kind of dress watch you were expecting? Probably not, and even if you were expecting something different, your perception will change once you try it on. Luckily, you can do just that with Discovery Studios, which has temporary locations in both London and Melbourne. I can’t believe I paid the money and ended the contract.
echo/neutra Rivanera pricing and availability
Echo/Nutra Rivanera is currently available exclusively in-store at Time+Tide Discovery Studios in Melbourne (Rivanera Grey, Rivanera Black) and London (Rivanera Gray, Rivanera Black). Price: AU$2,750, £1,268
Brand echo/neutra Model Rivanera Case dimensions 27mm (W) x 5.9mm (T) x 40mm (LTL) Case material Grade 5 titanium Water resistance 30 meters Crystal Sapphire front and back Dial Matte black or gray Lug width 20mm Bracelet and strap Black shell cordovan, titanium pin buckle
Black grain calf leather, titanium pin buckle Movement Peseux 7001, manual winding Power reserve 42 hours Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds Availability Time+Tide’s Melbourne and London Watch Limited quantities available at Discovery Studio Price $2,750
£1,268
