Borna Bosniak Peter Speke begins his second foray into high-end independent watchmaking with Tsuba, a piece with Japanese and Vietnamese influences. With its intricate cushion case and integrated bracelet design, the Tsuba looks like it’ll fit nicely into the niche pseudo-sport watch market. It is equipped with an ultra-thin Vaucher micro-rotor and is priced from CHF 19,500.
If you’ve spent any time researching all of the hottest independent watch brands of the 1990s, you’ve likely come across the name Peter Speke. In addition to being a co-founder of Speke Marine, a brand he joined from 2002 to 2017, he has produced works such as Harry Winston’s Xcentre Tourbillon and the first MB&F watch, the Horological Machine 1, introduced in 2007. , I see his name everywhere. It’s already a pretty good portfolio, but it’s made even better by The Naked Watchmaker, a project he co-produced from which he departed in 2022. And I still refer to that deconstruction often. More recently, Mr. Speke collaborated with Frederique Constant to develop the Slimline Perpetual Calendar, but was involved in the design rather than the manufacturing. In 2022, Speke launched PS Horology, marking his return to independent watchmaking. And now we’re seeing the first signs of what that will look like with the new Tuba Blue and Tuba Dong Son.
The most important theme for me is the dial, a multi-layered dial that adds depth to the simple design. The tsuba blue sector-style printing is applied to a sapphire crystal blank and mounted on a lacquered base. The logo is minimal and unobtrusive, fitting neatly into the lollipop hour hand when set at 12 o’clock, and the only other text is in the bottom corner of the dial, which is unfortunately in Microsoft Word-like script.
The situation is very different with the Dong Son dial. Depicting motifs from the Dong Son people, a Bronze Age Vietnamese civilization that inhabited the Red River in what is now northern Vietnam, this piece is hand-carved in 18K gold and inspired by the Dong Son drum, with the hands shaped like their spears. I’m doing it. The scene itself depicts the circle of Dong Son life, with the sun at the center as the most important aspect of an agricultural society, surrounded by dwellings and animals, and set against a slate or dark blue background. Why choose Bronze Age culture as an inspiration? For Thuva Dong Son, Speke collaborated with Vietnamese retailer Miluxe to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the founding of the country, as well as the 100th anniversary of the rediscovery of civilization. There is.
The tsuba case draws on Japanese inspiration, the ornate tsuba attached to a sword, giving it a highly complex-looking design accentuated by multiple contrasting finished surfaces. The 38.3 mm diameter is well-measured, and the 8.91 mm thickness is commendable despite the fact that it houses an automatic movement in the tsuba (more on that later). The word you don’t want to use to describe tsuba is simple. In fact, there are a lot of polyhedrons, undulating lines, and protrusions on the sides, especially when you consider the bracelet.
So this is another take on a sports watch with an integrated bracelet, right? Well, I’m not sure if it can be classified as such since it’s water resistant to 30 meters and doesn’t have any luminous dials, but that’s what I like. This is the choice of words for the introduction. For me, it falls into the segment occupied by teams like Parmigiani Tonda PF, but not just because they share moves.
Even though it’s a single-link design, each link is dramatically beveled (doesn’t it remind you of a Batarang?) and finished with a butterfly deployment clasp. For now, only Tuba Blue is available on the bracelet, but PSH says it plans to add a bracelet to the dongsung by mid-2025. The Dong Son is only available with a synthetic strap, but PSH interestingly points out that it’s moisture resistant. Having spent time in Vietnam during the warmer months is a niche but valuable selling point. The steel clasp is simple, with a round buckle emblazoned with the PS Horology logo and a two-blade folding closure.
No matter which angle you look at it, the tsuba is full of design quirks, and the case back is no exception. The left side of the Dong Son features a commemorative engraving, while the right side features an oval sapphire window that reveals the Vaucher 5401’s micro rotor and free-spring balance. As mentioned earlier, this is the movement you get. Used in Gerard Charles, Rain, and Kikuchi Nakagawa watches, it is essentially a third-party addition to Parmigiani’s PF700 line, produced by the brand’s Vaucher Manufacture. Fleurier. At 2.6mm in height, it’s surprisingly slim and has a decent 48-hour power reserve, although it’s a slight trade-off considering the thickness. At Tsuba, the 5401 has a blue (not sure if it’s heat blue) rotor and pretty basic decorations on the base grade straight from the factory. Coincidentally, you can see a complete disassembly of the Vaucher 5401 by The Naked Watchmaker here.
So far, PS Horology is very different from the “classic but with a twist” style of Peter Speake’s original namesake brand. There are too many unique independent artists to choose from, so I wish Speak all the best. I’ll be completely transparent and say that Tsuba isn’t my cup of tea, but what gives me hope is that this kind of execution will get Speak back on track and not waste his talent tied to something. It suggests a stoic watch. That said, I would like to see Speke pursue a more individual design language, focusing on the unique signatures that have made his other watches stand out, such as the Piccadilly case and the Spade handset. The Vaucher micro-rotor is a good caliber and the tsuba is competitively priced, but this serves as a wise business decision for PS Horology, making it an entry-level product that is relatively easy to obtain and benefits the brand. That’s what I see (hopefully). This allowed Mr. Speke to utilize his talents without sacrificing profitability. This was to undermine his early attempts at independence.
PS Horology Tuba Blue and Tuba Dong Son price and availability
PS Horology Tsuba Blue and Dong Son are now in stock. 100 pieces of Tsuba Blue will be produced by 2025, 99 of which will be available for purchase directly from PS Horology, Miluxe in Vietnam, and Martin Pulli in the US. Tuba Dong Son is limited to 80 pieces and available only from PS Horology and Miluxe. Price: CHF 19,500 (~US$21,500, Tuba Blue), POA (Tuba Donson)
Brand PS Horology Model Tsuba Blue
Tuba Donson Case dimensions 38.3mm (W) x 8.91mm (T) Case material Stainless steel Water resistance 30 meters Crystal Sapphire front and back Dial Printed sapphire, lacquer (blue)
Engraved gold, ultramarine or slate base (Dong Son) Lug width Integrated bracelet and strap Steel bracelet with butterfly clasp
Synthetic strap, folding clasp (Dong Son only) Movement Vaucher 5401, micro-rotor automatic Power reserve 48 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds Availability 99 pieces in 2025 (Blue)
80 pieces (Dong Son) Price: CHF 19,500 (Blue)
POA (Dongseong)
