Yema does not shy away from more creative uses of materials and colors. The French brand’s latest release proves this point perfectly. At first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking this is a forged carbon watch. But that’s wrong. The new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition is made from hand-finished black PVD coated stainless steel.
Yema will produce 200 units of this edition. Despite limited quantities and a lot of manual work, the price of 2,449 euros is only 200 euros more than the non-limited version. As of this writing, it’s not sold out yet, so you can still order it. Let’s take a closer look together!
Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20
Let’s start with a quick refresher course on the Yema Wristmaster Slim. In Yema’s current collection, you can choose between the Wristmaster Traveler or the Wristmaster Slim CMM.20. Both follow Yema’s take on integrated bracelet sports watches, including a micro-rotor movement, slimmer case, micro-adjustable clasp, and slightly different overall case profile to the more expensive Wristmaster Slim. Some improvements have been made. For those on a budget, the Traveler costs 890 euros, while the unrestricted Slim costs 2,249 euros.
Like the non-limited model, this latest version’s case measures 39 mm wide and 43.5 mm tip-to-tip. The case itself is only 9mm thick and has a slightly protruding sapphire crystal on top. Proportionally, the Wristmaster is a good fit. The case has plenty of presence, and its short length, smooth drop-off, and thinness allow for comfort and delicacy. Yema rates its water resistance at a respectable 100 meters.
The inside is engraved with the Yema caliber Manufacture Morteau 20 (CMM.20). This micro-rotor movement runs at 28,800 beats per hour. Yema rates its accuracy at -3/+7 seconds per day, and the power reserve reaches a healthy 70 hours.
Hand finish of Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20
This limited edition differs from the regular Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 due to its extensive hand finishing. And when I say “extensive” I mean it. All exterior components and even the movement bridges, which are displayed through the sapphire caseback, have been treated.
So what kind of treatment would that be? The surface is randomly brushed with a polishing tool. This differs from regular brushing, which consists of long, parallel stripes, and is a scattered, random pattern. The same pattern is applied to the dial, bezel, case and bracelet, all done by hand. The movement plate features a similar pattern, but on a smaller scale.
Once the brushing process is complete, Yema moves on to a black PVD coating. The result is very similar to forged carbon. Is it rude to call it fake carbon? However, the effect is slightly different. It features more of a metallic shine and less of the 3D effect of forged carbon. And of course you get the weight and cold feel of steel instead of the lightness and room temperature feel of carbon.
Wearing the new Wristmaster Limited Edition
Ergonomically, Iema knocks it out of the park with the Wrist Master. The reduced thickness of the Slim CMM.20 pushes it from good to great. It’s one of those watches with a seemingly neutral size. It feels both powerful and delicate at the same time, neither big nor small. The bracelet is nicely tapered and the links are short, making it comfortable to wear.
Yema has a built-in micro-adjustment mechanism that can be operated by simply pulling out the link on the side of the butterfly clasp. Unfortunately, as always with such clasps, it leaves an unsightly gap. I prefer no fine adjustment mechanism to one that leaves gaps, but I know many people would disagree. In any case, if you’re like me, you can always avoid using it.
Is this what you get for listmaster?
The Yema Wristmaster CMM.20 evokes some conflicting feelings in me. On the one hand, I love that Yema is doing something unique with this new finish. On the other hand, the question remains as to why. Perhaps the reason Black PVD surprises me is because it falls squarely into forged carbon territory. I like the visual depth of carbon, and I like its lightness, strength, and scratch resistance, so why would I buy a watch that looks like carbon but isn’t? Perhaps a more distinct color? or no PVD at all will give the finish a more distinctive look.
I have similar mixed feelings about this move. Yes, it’s cool to have a nice-looking micro-rotor movement like this. However, housed in a slightly modified Wristmaster case and bracelet, it doesn’t necessarily feel like a 250 euro watch on your wrist. This segment prefers simpler movements with flashier casings rather than the other way around.
Still, for fans of the Yema Wristmaster series, this is something special. It looks unique and I love the way it looks. The brushing stroke is larger than the typical flakes of forged carbon, and the metallic sheen is unlike any other watch I’ve seen. This movement is truly amazing and aesthetically surpasses its price class.
Price and availability
The new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 was introduced on November 29th and first orders began shipping on December 10th. On Yema’s website, you can order one of 200 limited edition watches for 2,449 euros, with shipping continuing until the end of January 2025. At this price, you will be paying a premium of 200 euros over the standard version, which eliminates all manual work. That’s so reasonable!
What do you think of the new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition in hand-brushed black PVD steel? Let us know in the comments below.
