Yes, you read that correctly. I think the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M with its steel dial, titanium bezel and mesh bracelet is wrong. Let me explain myself. Historically, it doesn’t make sense to pair a 1990s case design with a mesh bracelet from decades earlier. As a diver’s watch, it also has some serious flaws. Usually, the hairs on the back of my neck react very strongly when a watch brand combines an era with a watch while ignoring certain functional rules. Still, the rude Seamaster Diver 300M ref. 210.30.42.20.06.002 struck a chord with me, as dissonant and moving as the once-forbidden “devil’s tritone,” otherwise known as the diminished fifth. effect.
Omega first launched the Seamaster 300M in 1993, and the design shows it. The 1990s wasn’t exactly a golden age for watch design. There was too much detail, too much shine, almost too much of everything. The watches of the 1990s mark the arrival of an era for luxury watch brands in a new constellation, no longer ruled by function but emotion. The edgy Seamaster 300M, with its distinctive wave pattern on the dial, is a perfect example of its time. But what makes this quintessential 1990s watch stand the test of time?
Warming up the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
Perhaps we should give credit to James Bond for making the Seamaster 300M his signature watch. If it weren’t for Omega’s partnership with the 007 series, I’m convinced that faceted dive watches would be dead by now. But it lasted a long time, giving me plenty of time to warm up. And it took a lot of time to do so. In fact, it wasn’t until earlier this year that I (finally) tried on a Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton on a black rubber strap (ref. 210.32.42.20.01.002).
Nekton, which debuted four years ago, resonated with me primarily because of its titanium bezel rather than ceramic. Although small, the lack of a date is also a plus. The wave pattern on the dial is still acceptable, but the central red second hand and the red “Seamaster” text have become less visually appealing as I continue to use the watch. You know what I mean, the popping colors never stopped popping. It became the center of attention and I didn’t really care.
New No Date Seamaster Diver 300M Model
When Omega released two no-date versions of the Seamaster Diver 300M, I wanted to see both. Yesterday, Jorg shared his thoughts on the black dial version. I fell in love with this watch as soon as it arrived at our office. That was fine, as I wanted to try the reference 210.30.42.20.06.002, which has a vertically brushed steel dial and a “naked” bezel. So what’s it like?
Well, in many ways the same as Nekton. The diameter is the same 42mm, the thickness is 13.8mm, and the distance between the lugs is 49.7mm. The steel case is also topped by the same “naked” titanium bezel with polished numerals and markers on a matte grained background. This watch also has the same movement. The 300m water-resistant case houses the Omega automatic caliber 8806, visible through the sapphire window on the caseback. This is a master chronometer movement with 25,200 vibrations per hour, 55 hours of power reserve, and 35 jewels. It also features a Co-Axial escapement, a free sprung balance with silicon balance spring, magnetic resistance of 15,000 Gauss, and daily accuracy of 0/+6 seconds.
So what’s the difference? Now, it’s the dial. The vertically brushed steel dial is certainly very different. Two things stand out. It has no color and its appearance is constantly changing. By eliminating color, the monochromatic dial creates a chic and calm impression, making it impressive. The black text on the dial almost disappears against the metallic background. However, despite its colorless appearance, it is incredibly dynamic. Depending on how light reflects off the steel, it changes from gray to black and back again. These are monochromatic reflective glasses that have not gotten old so far. It’s interesting how this very gray watch can exist so energetically. However, this Seamaster also short-circuited my “watch brain”.
Introducing “Silver Surfer”.
Some might argue that the 1990s Seamaster, popularized by James Bond, was never intended as a diving device. The Seamaster was born in an era when mechanical watches were considered emotional products. The edgy, shiny Seamaster 300M was a “desk diver” from the start, despite its 300 meter depth rating and manual helium escape valve. The look is first and foremost sports chic. It has enough shiny details to grab the attention of colleagues in your open-plan office.
The well-shaped 2024 reference 210.30.42.20.06.002 is also very shiny and very silvery. The new No-Date Seamaster Diver 300M with a black dial was given the nickname “Daniel Craig” after the old 007 “leaked” before its release. I believe the bolder version with its silvery shine also deserves the nickname. I suggest “Silver Surfer” for obvious reasons.
Mesh bracelet is a catchy hook
Completing the “Silver Surfer” look is a mesh bracelet. This bracelet style was particularly popular in the 1970s and looked great on the original Omega Seamaster Ploprof, a diving instrument aimed at professional divers who never sat at an office desk for a minute. Historically, mesh bracelets were not available on the Seamaster Diver 300M. And aesthetically, it can even be a bit contradictory. But just as the Devil’s Tritone gives Jimi Hendrix’s “Purple Haze” a catchy yet slightly ominous hook, the clash of designs on “Silver Surfer” fascinated me. That being said, the quality of the new Seamaster steel mesh bracelet, which is very metallic, is great. A deluxe version of a once-functional shark-proof design. The only difficulty I have is the thickness of the clasp. The 3-layer steel on the underside of the wrist is a bit much.
There are also functional deficiencies. A dial that constantly changes shades is distracting and not functional. If you think of this silver-dial Seamaster as a professional diver’s watch, you’re wrong. But instead, if you look at the watch through the eyes of the 1990s, I think the Seamaster Diver 300M “Silver Surfer” loosens up a bit.
Final words about the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Silver Surfer”
No matter how wrong this silver/gray dialed Seamaster Diver 300M is historically and functionally, it works on your wrist. Despite its monochrome appearance, it’s a professionally stylish desk diver that’s surprisingly vibrant. When I say very fashionable, I say that while thinking back to the four Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore references released in 2023 in collaboration with Matthew Williams, the designer of the 1017 Alyx 9SM. These watches also have vertical brushed dials in the same shade as the case and bracelet, creating a fully integrated look. The full metal Seamaster Diver 300M ‘Silver Surfer’ is a charismatic piece that descends in style.
What do you think of this new Seamaster Diver 300M? What do you think of its nickname “Silver Surfer”? Also, do you like a mishmash of styles? Let us know in the comments.
