This story all started with Daniel Craig… again! In fact, this is the case with many of Omega’s stories today. The former secret agent wasn’t all that secretive about the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M he wore during the Paris Olympics earlier this year. As usual, that’s when watch enthusiasts took notice and the internet went wild. That started a rumor that kept circling until just a few weeks ago, Omega finally announced the new black Seamaster Diver 300M. It’s part of a series of new models, but honestly, this is it! It was the watch worn by Daniel Craig, and it was the one I was most interested in. Could it be the Seamaster I’ve been waiting for? Judging by looks alone, it definitely is. It’s time to find out more!
I have to give it to Craig before I can get into the watch. He was looking for the role in Paris. Despite his controversial hairstyle and scruffy two-day shaved beard, he wears a blue suit with off-white buttons, a white shirt, and a dark blue tie with red details. It still looked stylish. But as usual, it was all just a small bonus. His tie was held in place with a nice clip, and a red pocket square peeked out from his chest pocket for a touch of red. On his wrist was a new Omega Seamaster, on his nose were Jacques Marie Mage Grand Prix sunglasses in Dark Havana, and in his hand was a Leica M10-R for action-packed snapshots.
Daniel Craig, senior executive at Omega
The best part was the VIP pass around Craig’s neck, and in the photo he looked just like Bond. The highlight was the mention of his position as a senior executive at Omega. you have to love it. It conjures up a funny image of Craig arriving for work at Omega’s offices in Biel at precisely 9am on a Monday morning. I think that’s a slightly less glamorous life than saving the world from supervillains.
But enough about Craig’s imaginary wanderings, whether as Bond or not. I would like to talk about watches. This is a watch I’ve been looking forward to for a long time. I loved the James Bond 60th Anniversary model that preceded the new Seamaster series. The small wave dial was reintroduced, the date at 6 o’clock was removed, and a stainless steel mesh bracelet similar to the titanium mesh bracelet that adorned the Seamaster Diver 300M No Time to Die was included. I was really excited to see the watch because it brings back some of the design cues from the early Seamaster Diver 300M that I adore.
Details of the new Seamaster Diver 300M
The main complaint I had with this watch was the Bond case back. I’m simply not a fan of these dressed-up Bond Seamasters, but to be fair, you won’t see any Bond branding when you wear them. However, the regular model still left something to be desired. Almost two years later, I finally had the chance to try out the new black version that Craig wore in Paris earlier this summer.
Robert-Jan wrote an extensive introductory article about the new Seamaster, discussing all the details. In this article, we will focus on the wearing experience, what we think of this new release and the regular version, and what the future holds for the Seamaster Diver 300M. However, let’s look at some basic details. This new Seamaster features the familiar Lila-lug case that measures 42mm in diameter, 13.8mm thick (including crystal), and 49.7mm lug to lug.
It features a screw-down crown on the right side of the case and an HEV on the left side. While some people complain about the latter element, I like it as part of the history of the Seamaster Diver 300M. I also like how the case design adds visual detail and is based on a practical background. At this point, it is an illogical wish to get rid of it.
Choice of movement and mesh or rubber strap
As the name of the watch suggests, the case is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters. It is powered by the Omega automatic caliber 8806, visible through the sapphire window on the caseback. The Master Chronometer movement operates at 25,200 vibrations per hour, offers a 55-hour power reserve, and features 35 jewels. It features a Co-Axial escapement, a free sprung balance with silicon balance spring, magnetic resistance of 15,000 Gauss, and an accuracy of 0/+6 seconds per day.
The new Seamaster Diver 300M is available on a stainless steel mesh bracelet for €7,200 and on a black rubber strap for €6,600. This means that the new small wave dial model on the rubber strap costs the same as the regular Seamaster Diver 300M on the stainless steel bracelet. No wonder, then, why the regular version is more expensive, since it has a ceramic dial and bezel insert.
That is a valid point based on rational observation. Then again, when did buying a luxury watch become just a rational decision? Let’s explain a little more. Because I’m happy to pay an extra 600 euros for this new version, which seems to be less practical when you pay more.
The new Seamaster Diver 300M hits the sentimental sweet spot
I’ve already mentioned why I like this new version. But let’s look more specifically. The new Seamaster features details that reference the original Seamaster Diver 300M from the 1990s, which I love. Let’s start with the dial, because it’s the big eye-catcher. As Robert-Jan explained, the watch features a dial reminiscent of the first wave-patterned dials from the 1990s. The black aluminum wave dial evokes the feel of the original Bond Seamaster. I also think it adds some overall polish and makes the watch look better than the current regular version. The aluminum dial also explains the aluminum bezel insert. Material-wise, these are a better match and add a retro feel.
The next element that I like is the stainless steel mesh bracelet. As previously mentioned, this mesh bracelet style was first seen on the titanium Seamaster Diver 300M NTTD. Some argue for its retro style, combined with the ’90s-inspired case and dial design. Is it a mismatch? If you look back at its origins, you might think so. However, the modern finish of the mesh bracelet fits well with the overall style. I won’t argue if it fits better than the regular Seamaster Diver 300M bracelet, but I prefer the look. As it turns out, it’s that simple.
Wearing the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
But how does that translate on the wrist? First, let me say that the details on the case and dial are impressive. First of all, the case is beautifully finished down to the last detail. It features mostly brushed surfaces and some nicely polished areas. The polished parts of the lugs flow beautifully into the visually sparkling crown guard. In addition, the knurled crown and HEV are polished for added visual brilliance. If you look closely, this watch has many intricate mechanisms that demonstrate the great eye for detail behind its creation.
The same goes for mesh bracelets. Its construction and quality are amazing and this also applies to the foldover clasp. It’s very well made and matches the style of the bracelet very well. But that is also the first point of criticism. When the clasp is closed, the two layers of mesh bracelet and clasp are stacked on top of each other. As you can imagine, this results in a sandwich of layered elements. Yes, it’s a good sandwich because the quality is great, but it would be even better if it was a little less bulky.
on your wrist at home
That said, the watch is comfortable to wear and looks great when the clasp is closed and worn on the wrist. The proportions of the 42mm case and 20mm bracelet are perfect. Thankfully, the bracelet tapers to 18mm at the clasp, which compares favorably to the typical non-tapered bracelets on regular models. Plus, it’s less bulky and more flexible. The mesh bracelet wrapped snugly around my 6-inch wrist, and it was smooth sailing from there. For me, the only time stacking bulky bracelet elements became an issue was when I wanted to rest my wrist on a desk or table.
To be honest, that didn’t take away from my enjoyment of the watch. Visually, I liked the look of the watch on my wrist. The combination of the instantly recognizable Seamaster Diver 300M case, the sleek look of the dial, and the comfortable bracelet makes for a very nice version that I prefer over the regular one. What’s more, it’s much more affordable than the blue 60th anniversary James Bond model, which sells for 9,200 euros. This raises the question whether Omega plans to release a blue version of this new Seamaster. I don’t think that will happen, but it’s an interesting idea.
Overall impressions of the new black Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
I support the blue version. That’s because that was the original dial color before the James Bond connection began. Just to be clear, the Seamaster 300M debuted before it became a Bond watch, so Omega has no problem introducing a non-Bond branded blue version of this watch. Until then, I have a new favorite three-hand Seamaster: the new black version of the Diver 300M. The sophistication it offers is just ideal for me, and Omega has solved quite a few of my problems with regular models.
The balanced dial looks great even without the date at 6 o’clock. The position of this date has been a problem for me since this watch was released in 2018. I simply prefer the date at 3 o’clock. This is because it does not disturb the vertical balance of the dial. Plus, the intricate wave pattern adds sophistication and a nod to history, which I love. Finally, the mesh bracelet is comfortable and gives the watch a completely different look than regular models. However, we understand that not everyone will agree.
personal preference rules
In the end, it comes down to personal preference. To be honest, this new Seamaster is not meant to replace the standard Diver 300M. You can choose your favorite. For some it’s the regular model and for others it’s this new undated version. Does that leave anything to be desired? There’s always something you want. Like many watch enthusiasts, there are some optimizations I’d love to see.
Robert-Jan mentioned them in the comments below the introductory article for the Green Titanium Bronze Gold version of Thomas. I’d love to see a smaller 41mm Seamaster with a slimmer case that retains the small wave dial with round markers. But most importantly, we wish Omega would create a more sophisticated version of the classic nine-row bracelet. Considering the brand’s great job in optimizing the Moonwatch bracelet, we can see that designers can come up with great bracelets for the new Seamaster.
But in the meantime, this new black Seamaster Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.010 is a great step in adding further sophistication and historical context to the Seamaster Diver 300M. Additionally, despite its considerable size and thickness, it fits the wrist very well. This makes it an absolute pleasure to wear.
While certainly not perfect, this new version of the Seamaster Professional Diver 300M has definitely earned a second place on my list of favorite Omega Seamaster 300M models, next to the Sedona Gold version of the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph . As it is, this new three-hand version is great. You don’t need a former on-screen spy to reach that conclusion.
