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The story of Micro Mil-Spec is like a fast-forward to Panerai, which was founded in 2019 to supply watches as a military contractor. In just a few years, Micro Milspec has amassed an impressive customer list while attracting significant interest among private collectors. Currently, the company has started releasing limited edition models to the public, and they are a huge hit. By combining genuine on-the-ground knowledge with a microbrand’s attitude towards affordability, it’s clear that Micromilspec can grow quickly if it wants to. But does a sudden shift to a consumer-driven model go against the brand’s ethos? To better understand the process and future plans, we spoke to Henrik Rye, CEO of Micromilspec.
What are some examples of design proposals from military units and first responders?
The main goal of the design is to capture the essence of the unit and what it resonates with. This may mean creating an extension of the uniform or incorporating subtle hidden details that only the owner will recognize. For example, the Hercules force wanted a watch that was a visual homage to the cockpits of Hercules aircraft during night flights. In contrast, a more modest example comes from a bodyguard force that requested a bezel divided into color-coded sections to match the language of their operational code. For example, the “black in the box” indicates a designated entry point, allowing owners to rotate the bezel to suit a specific building or scenario.
Do you think Micro Milspec is a micro brand?
By definition, we definitely qualify as a microbrand. After all, “Micro” is part of our name. But because we focus on a niche, we feel more like an outsider than a microbrand. When designing a new micro-mil-spec model, does form come first or does function come first? As a brand, we always prioritize function and quality. That said, our customers are very focused on how form, and especially design, connects with storytelling and makes a watch authentically their own. In the end, it’s all about balance.
How important is affordability to your brand? Have you considered developing an in-house movement?
We aim to maximize quality while continuing to reach our core customers who live on military paychecks. At the same time, quality comes with a price tag. When it comes to developing in-house movements, they must serve practical purposes, such as strengthening value chain control or improving product reliability. It’s never about raising prices.
What is involved when micromilspec is field tested?
Field testing is primarily intended to gather feedback. We design every detail in our studio, but there is no substitute for real life conditions. Testing can highlight practical things like how the crown grips when wearing gloves and whether its size is functional. For example, field test units have the model name and serial number displayed directly on the dial, making them easy for soldiers to identify when the watches are placed side by side (if you look closely, they resemble dog tags). Testing can also determine if the bracelet catches hair on your wrist or the first area where wear occurs. After all, field testing isn’t just about making improvements. It’s an opportunity to connect our products with the people who wear them.
Has Micromilspec considered other case materials such as ceramic or carbon fiber?
absolutely. We already use forged carbon in custom projects for special forces. Ceramic is especially appealing because of its color, but adjustments have been made to reduce the risk of chipping. It’s definitely in our future plans.
Have U.S. Space Force watches ever been worn in space?
still! But there will be signs.
Why is it important to keep mechanical watchmaking alive in military applications?
The main reason for this is that many military applications prohibit electronics, quartz movements, and smartwatches due to traceability concerns. For example, in sensitive environments such as control rooms or classified operations, electronic devices can be monitored or tracked, putting security at risk. In contrast, automatic watches with purely mechanical movements do not have the same vulnerabilities and are therefore permitted.
Is the exclusivity of micromilspec due to production limitations or deliberate marketing?
Micromilspec’s exclusivity stems from two key factors. Firstly, we are a small team of only 5 people and we juggle multiple projects, which takes up a lot of our time. Second, production is only scheduled and booked once a year. Our civilian models are made using movements available after fulfilling military orders, and military orders always take precedence.
