Borna Bosniak
There are several brand names that are synonymous with luxury and quality, such as Rimowa bags and Le Creuset cookware. When it comes to the camera world, Leica is definitely a force to be reckoned with, best known for its compact rangefinder-style film cameras and, more recently, its digital developments such as the M11 and Q series. Leica has also been focusing on watches recently, debuting with the ZM 1 and ZM 2 models. These two high-end, camera-inspired pieces were more like homages to the brand’s foundations, and were aimed squarely at the camera geeks out there. But what about those who just want a simple, well-made watch and don’t necessarily care about the connection to a camera company? That’s where the Leica ZM 11 collection comes into play. The brand’s latest take on watches, it takes the form of a large watch with an integrated bracelet, with just the right amount of camera inspiration without feeling forced.
dial
The minimalist look begins with the dial, which features horizontal slats that flare out towards the center. Along with the curved sapphire crystal, this adds a subtle accent to the center of the dial, but without overly distorting the look as seen with wide-angle lenses. The indices and handset are both ingot-like and easy to read, with the exception of the soft-framed date window at 3 o’clock.
There are currently three color variations to choose from. The Launch Edition is the stealthiest, with a thin red band hidden under the slats of the black dial, visible only from an angle, and much less noticeable than the press images suggest. The coffee black warms up the dark brown tone with matching golden indexes and print on the dial, and the cool midnight blue looks much more azure than midnight to my eyes, and also thanks to the many colors Much more shiny. It has a sunburst finish.
Overall, these stay true to Leica’s general design ethos, although they certainly lean more toward the form than function side of minimalism. Given that the ZM 11 is a sports watch with an integrated bracelet, I would have liked to have seen a minute mark incorporated into the design. The last thing to consider is the position of the logo. Doesn’t it look a little too high above the dial?
case
With that in mind, let’s discuss this incident. It’s 41mm in diameter and 13mm thick, but the case is almost all about the thin bezel and large dial, with integrated lugs sticking out at 45-degree angles. As such, it’s comfortable to wear on any wrist, but its thickness means it fits particularly well on medium-sized and larger wrists. You can choose between stainless steel or grade 5 titanium, and we think you can’t go wrong with the latter. Not only is it lightweight, but it doesn’t have that flimsy feel that many titanium watches tend to have. This also applies to bracelets, but more on this later. With 100 meters of water resistance and a chunky screw-down crown, the ZM 11 successfully ticks all the boxes for the sporty everyday category.
However, I feel like there is still a lot of work to be done regarding the finishing of the case. Don’t get me wrong – the finishing on the ZM 11 isn’t bad, and like I said, it feels very solid – but there aren’t that many surfaces to finish on this watch to begin with. That said, this is entirely a stylistic choice and a matter of personal preference, so I can hardly make a point here.
bracelet and strap
Speaking of style choices, Marcus Eylinger is currently the creative director of watches for Leica, and comes with an impressive resume that lists names like Zenith, Tudor, IWC, and Moser. Of particular interest here is the surname. Because the bracelet on the ZM 11 is quite similar to the bracelet on the Moser Streamliner. For watches like the ZM 11 (and other integrated bracelet watches), the bracelet is as much a part of the wearing experience as the case, and it really shines here. The subtle C-shaped links are comfortable and well-articulated, continuing the case design nicely all the way to the butterfly clasp.
If you’re looking for something a little more sturdy and lightweight, Leica also offers rubber and Cordura straps. I especially like the coffee brown look of the latter. The brand has clearly paid special attention to the design of the buckle as well, fitting well with the non-tapered strap and its muscular proportions.
A potential downside to the one-piece bracelet design is its versatility, given that it can’t just be attached to older aftermarket straps. Thankfully, Leica allays these fears with an excellent quick-change system that pays homage to the camera manufacturer’s history and incorporates the iconic red dot on the bottom pusher. With clever quick-release integrations like this, I wish Leica would explore more innovative solutions for their butterfly bracelet clasps. We think it was a perfect choice stylistically, but a sophisticated tool-less tweaking system would take it to the next level.
movement
The Chronode C102 on the back of the ZM 11 is customized for Leica and includes a grain black bridge with a pleasing brushed outline, a sunray-brushed ratchet wheel, and a skeletonized Leica-branded rotor. In terms of its core specs, however, there’s not much new to report, although it still runs a decent automatic movement that beats at 4Hz for up to 60 hours. The most interesting thing about using Chronode’s basic automatic movement is that you have the option to incorporate even more complication modules, which Chronode personnel specialize in.
judgment
Unlike the ZM 1 and ZM 2, the Leica ZM 11 isn’t trying to capture the Leica-ness of the brand that makes people buy cameras, and there’s nothing wrong with trying to separate it from that. As a stand-alone product, the ZM 11 is well thought out and provides a satisfying presence on your wrist if you have an average or larger wrist size, or if you don’t mind wearing a larger watch . This is thanks to its attractive bracelet, which benefits from a compact lug-to-lug design and a well-integrated quick-change system. That’s why the stealthy Titanium Launch Edition with matching bracelet is my choice. Because it’s easily visible on the wrist of someone shooting street photography with the M11 Monochrom.
The C102 is certainly a step above the ETA 2892/Selita SW300, and is listed on Chronode for between $1,000 and $1,500 per movement (MOQ between 10 and 1,000), about the price of a replacement Sellita. It will be 4 times more. However, considering the overall price of the watch, there is certainly the idea that the price is a little too high. This isn’t all that surprising considering Leica tends to include additional household name taxes in product prices. Having said that, the quality of the product is not compromised, but it may be difficult to find customers who are not yet accustomed to the Leica ethos.
Leica ZM 11 pricing and availability
The Leica ZM 11 collection is now available. Price: Starting from US$6,775 (Midnight Blue), Starting from US$7,275 (Launch Edition, Coffee Black)
Brand Leica Model ZM 11 Case Dimensions 41mm (D) x 13mm (T) Case Material Stainless Steel
Grade 5 titanium Water resistance 100 meters, screw-down crown Crystal Sapphire obverse and back Dial Black and red, golden brown, sunburst blue Lug width Integrated bracelet and strap Bracelet to match case, butterfly clasp
Rubber or Cordura strap, case-matching pin buckle Movement Leica LA-3001, Chronode C102, automatic power reserve 60 hours Features Hours, minutes, seconds, date On sale Prices from USD 6,775 (Midnight Blue)
Starting at $7,275 (Launch Edition, Coffee Black)
