Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

Today we will be looking at the Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary Limited Edition. This is the third part of our hands-on review of these special commemorative models. The Navitimer is probably Breitling’s most famous chronograph, which means this piece has to be excellent.

So far, I’ve tried out the Super Chronomat and the Premier Datra Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary Edition. The third and final watch is the Navitimer Perpetual Calendar, which looks very different from the others. The Super Chronomat is the sportiest of the trio, featuring a large 44mm case with an openworked dial. In contrast, the 42mm Premier is the smallest and most formal looking with a glossy black dial. How is the Navitimer different?

Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

Let me start by saying that I am impressed with all the 140th Anniversary models. Beautifully crafted in every detail, it looks stunning on your wrist. Each is intended for a different purpose, but all are powered by the same movement. The Navitimer Perpetual Calendar is my favorite piece, for reasons that probably have to do with my preference for vintage watches.

In this application, the Navitimer Perpetual Calendar has a 43 mm x 49 mm 18K red gold case. The thickness is 15.6 mm (including the warped sapphire crystal and screw-down display case back). For reference, it is the same thickness as Premier. This watch uses a traditional pump pusher and has a large signed winding crown. It has a black alligator strap and a red gold folding clasp.

Difference between Navitimer and other Navitimers

The biggest difference between the Navitimer Perpetual Calendar and other anniversary models is the dial. While other models have black dials, the Navitimer has a shiny gold sunburst dial. Naturally, this is a big change, and a change for the better. We’re used to seeing modern Navitimers with bold dial colors like icy blue, dark green, and mint green. So a light dial works.

However, it doesn’t look like a giant circular wheat field. The outer slide rule is black and helps reduce the visual size of the dial. Additionally, hints of instrumental red provide a pleasing contrast. As with other 140th anniversary pieces, Breitling has chosen 18K red gold for the hour markers and hands.

Big but comfortable

The Navitimer Perpetual Calendar has a larger diameter than the Premier, but the 49mm shorter lug length makes the difference. Additionally, the thin, sloping lugs ensure the case fits snugly on your wrist. For those who have never tried the Navitimer, it is an interesting product. The raised bi-directional bezel is thin, resulting in a watch that takes up most of the dial.

It’s not supposed to work on its unique look, but the case design, domed crystal, and slide rule dark scale all contribute to one of the most enduring designs on the market. Navitimers are never simple, but in this case the dial is even more complex and looks wonderfully luxurious.

B19 perpetual calendar

Like other anniversary models, the Navitimer Perpetual Calendar is powered by the manufacturer’s chronometer-certified automatic movement B19. Once again on display is a 22K gold rotor from the original Montbrillant workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. This movement has a power reserve of 96 hours and operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. In addition to the time, it also features a moon phase complication, a chronograph with 30-minute counter, and a full perpetual calendar with leap year indicator.

availability

The Navitimer Perpetual Calendar is also available as a limited edition of 140 pieces. It costs €55,000 / £48,000 / US$59,000, the same figures as the other two models. As mentioned in a previous article, these 140th anniversary editions are expensive but special. In my opinion, the Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary is the most distinctive of all the calendars due to its bright dial tone.

What do you think about this watch and the three 140th anniversary series as a whole? Do you have a favorite model? Let us know in the comments.

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