Girard-Perregaux has a history spanning more than two centuries, and its longevity has earned it the title of a heavyweight watchmaker. “GP” may be in the shadow of “AP” and “VC”, but it is well worth the spotlight. It has a long history of notable and unique complications, such as the tourbillon with its three gold bridges, and the classic Laureato from the 1970s. The current collection has many variations, of which the recently launched Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 is an interesting example.
Laureato is a shadow icon. I wouldn’t call this a “replacement” to other luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. Because I don’t believe in substitutes. You can read about that perspective here. In 1975, Girard-Perregaux introduced the Quartz Chronometer, a tonneau-shaped watch with an octagonal bezel, a precursor to the Laureato. The fact that the original Laureato was a battery-powered watch was never a problem. Let me rephrase that. Laureato’s quartz heart never got in the way. But the Royal Oaks of this world were. And Girard-Perregaux’s somewhat checkered current history may also be a factor.
Unique and lightweight Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49
As a non-Genta design, life can be difficult in the modern watch world where bracelet-integrated sports watches reign supreme and status and easy-to-listen storytelling are (almost) everything. The Laureato family has no famous “papa” or anecdotal history. But do we need anecdotes or the late star designer to evaluate the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49? The answer is no. Let the clock do the talking.
Thomas has already written an introductory article about the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49, so be sure to check out all the objective information and specifications about the 107g watch. We’ll be keeping an eye on how the 20,500 euro chronograph is fitted. Spoiler alert: It feels good to use, not just in terms of weight, but also in terms of the size, shape, and details of the watch.
Attention to detail
When you put the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 on your wrist, the first thing you notice is how light it is. There are still people who look for weight in luxury products, but this GP is a sports watch, not a paperweight. The carefully finished grade 5 titanium looks luxurious with alternating polished and brushed finishes. It also lacks weight, which makes it even more luxurious rather than detracting from it. If that weren’t luxurious enough, the delicate Clous de Paris pattern on the gray dial, in the same tone as the surrounding titanium, is a prime example of fine watchmaking. Attention to detail is also evident in the octagonal screw-down chronograph pushers, which echo the shape of the bezel.
“Stealth” on your wrist
Measuring 42mm in diameter, 50.5mm in length and 12mm in thickness, this GP Chrono wears perfectly on your wrist. To say I don’t notice it is a compliment, but there was one element I had to get used to in terms of the “stealth” nature of the watch. Yes, the difference in texture between the dial and sub-dials is delicate, the applied indexes and logos add depth, and the ton-sur-ton construction is sophisticated. However, its ultra-gray appearance becomes a bit bland if you don’t check the various details individually when checking the time on the watch. Calling it “stealth” might sound more exciting, but that term doesn’t apply to a full titanium watch with a 1970s neo-retro look and gray dial. “Boring” is. That said, a boring watch can be the best starting point for building a happy and long-lasting relationship with it.
I have no complaints about the operation of this Laureato chronograph movement. Behind the robust titanium caseback is the 419-part automatic in-house caliber GP03300-0141. The 46-hour power reserve of this caliber indicates that this caliber is not the pinnacle of movement innovation, but may be a subject of debate. The same applies to the watch’s date window, located between 4 and 5 o’clock on the dial. Will anything be added? Is it a relic of the past that we should cherish rather than criticize? Let me know in the comments.
Other options from the Girard-Perregaux collection
With the range of Laureato chronograph models available in steel, gold, titanium, and carbon fiber, you might be spoiled for choice. Wearing the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 reminded me of the associated GP reference. In other words, I started looking for alternatives on the Girard-Perregaux website. This is the only time I think it makes sense to look for alternatives, as the search is done within brands, collections and specifications. In gold, I don’t think this sporty chronograph makes sense. The steel version is approximately 60 grams heavier and weighs more than titanium, so it is excluded.
The Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech is a possible alternative. Unidirectional, non-braided, pre-impregnated carbon fiber combined with lightweight titanium powder is used in the case to create a high-tech kit that is both lightweight and attractive in appearance. Unfortunately, the case measures 44 mm wide and 15.15 mm thick, and instead of the same marble-like material bracelet, the watch is equipped with a cloth strap. Carbon watches are not only significantly larger than titanium watches, but they also cost more. At 29,300 euros, the 8Tech is too expensive to serve as a true replacement. You have no choice but to deal with the “boring” gray variation of titanium. It may take several years, but I would like to seriously work on this long-term experiment.
What do you think about the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49? Let us know in the comments section below.
Watch specifications
model
Laureato Chronograph Ti49
reference
81020-21-3263-1CM
dial
Gray with hobnail pattern, luminescent hands and applied indexes, concentric subdials, date window
case material
grade 5 titanium
case dimensions
42mm (diameter) x 50.5mm (between lugs) x 12mm (thickness)
crystal
Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
case back
Grade 5 titanium, screw-in
movement
Girard-Perregaux GP03300-0141: automatic, hand-wound and hacking function, frequency 28,800vph, 46-hour power reserve, 63 jewels
water resistance
100 meters
strap
Grade 5 Titanium Integrated H-Link Bracelet with Butterfly Clasp
function
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), chronograph (12 hours, 30 minutes, center seconds), date
price
Euro 20,500 / Swiss Franc 18,600 / USD 19,400