The Breitling Premier Datra Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary is the dressiest release from the trio of red gold beauties. The jet black dial and traditional case design are beautiful and can be worn in a variety of situations. Today we’ll take a closer look at this complex chronograph.
I remember when Premiere came back in 2019. I reviewed the 42mm Panda Dial Automatic and was impressed with its finish. Since then, Breitling has released further premier models, including a hand-wound version with a 40mm case. 2021 saw the arrival of more complex versions, Datora and Duograph. The Premier Datra Perpetual Calendar is our boldest offering to date and is part of a trio celebrating the brand’s 140th anniversary.
Breitling Premier Datra Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
The 140th Anniversary model features an in-house movement with a perpetual calendar. However, applications are model specific. Specifically, the Premier Datora is the smallest, with a diameter of 42 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 50.03 mm. It is also made of 18K red gold. This piece is more formal with a polished black alligator strap and 18K red gold folding clasp. However, you can take advantage of the watch’s 100 meter water resistance by quickly replacing it with a rubber strap.
Black dial with red gold details
The Premier Datra is completely different from the Super Chronomat we recently reviewed. Beneath the curved sapphire crystal, this watch features a more traditional black dial with red gold detailing. A black tachymeter bezel borders a gold 60 seconds per minute track and flows into the main black dial. The watch has red gold Arabic numerals applied to the hour markers and black subdials. The subdials combine gold and white print and feature a moon phase indicator, running seconds, day of the week, date, 30-minute counter, month, and leap year indicator.
Overall, it’s more subtle than the Super Chronomat and perfect for formal wear. We also commend Breitling for choosing warmer red gold over yellow gold.
take a look at the case
Advanced perpetual calendar movements require relatively sturdy cases. The Premier Datora is 15.6 mm thick and has a polished and matte finish on the case. Like all modern Premier models, this Breitling includes horizontal grooves and side collectors to help distribute the thickness. On the other side of the case is a large signed winding crown and two rectangular pushers. The latter detail is a lesser-discussed feat considering that round pushers are more susceptible to water resistance.
Internal B19 movement
The Premier Datra, like other 140th Anniversary pieces, uses the in-house automatic B19 movement. Visible through a sapphire display screw-down case back. In addition to its Côtes de Genève finish and visible column wheel, this caliber features a 22K red gold rotor, a nod to the brand’s original Montbrillant workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The balance operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and the caliber boasts chronometer certification and a power reserve of 96 hours. This is truly a masterpiece and shows what Brighting is capable of when it chooses to create highly complex calibers.
beauty of wrist
Despite its large size, the Premier Datora wears beautifully on the wrist thanks to the curved shape of the lugs. The case is heavy and durable, comparable to other highly complicated watches from various brands. Taking that into account, the price of €55,000 / £48,000 / US$59,000 is also on par with other luxury brands. This Breitling is limited to 140 pieces and is available at authorized Breitling retailers and online.
For more information on the Premier Datra Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary, please visit Breitling’s official website.
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Watch specifications
model
Premier B19 Datra 42 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
dial
Black with black subdials and 18K red gold hour markers coated with Super-LumiNova
case material
18k red gold
case dimensions
42mm (diameter) x 50.03mm (between lugs) x 15.6mm (thickness)
crystal
Curved sapphire, double-sided anti-glare treatment
back cover
18K red gold and cambered sapphire crystal, screw-down
movement
Breitling Manufacture Caliber B19: automatic chronograph perpetual calendar with manual winding and hacking function, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 96 hours power reserve, column wheel, vertical clutch, COSC certified chronometer
water resistance
100 meters
strap
Black alligator leather with 18K red gold folding clasp
function
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), chronograph (30 minutes, center seconds), perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year), moon phase indicator, tachymeter
price
55,000 euros / 48,000 pounds / 59,000 USD
Special notes
Limited to 140 pieces