Borna Bosniaks
Bicompax chronographs have a unique allure. The two symmetrical subdials give the watch an undeniable allure. For a watch nerd like me, the birth and evolution of the Bicompax naming is as interesting as some of the watches that fall into this category. In fact, I wrote an article on this. I won’t go into too much detail, but basically, Universal Geneva came up with the name in the late 1930s under the name Compax, which provided some memorable references. From there, the Unicompax and Tricompax followed, including the famous Nina Rindt and Eric Clapton models, but named by the complication rather than the number of subdials. Watches like the Clapton were called Tricompax because they featured moonphase, calendar, and chronograph functions across four subdials.
Today, the name is used primarily for watches with two subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock, and true bicompaxes are rare. Even more complicated are two-register chronographs with a date display. Are these bicompax, or is the date display not enough? This can get out of hand quickly, and it pains me to try not to get cocky on the subject, but from now on I’ll just treat any two-register chronograph as bicompax.
Baltic Bicompax 003
First up is the Baltic Bicompax 003 from micro powerhouse Baltic. The Bicompax 002 has long been one of the best entry-level chronographs, but it has been updated with a new dial and a new 36mm case size, which is good news for vintage lovers. The sector dial is less obtrusive, especially in this salmon variant, and instead focuses on different textures that sit comfortably on the wrist. The combination of intersecting circular brushing on the hour ring and azure on the sub-dials contrasts with the heavy granulated finish in the centre. It is powered by the Seagull ST1901, but the reduced case diameter now matches the size of the movement visible through the caseback, making it look even better. We will bring you a review of this model in the coming weeks. Price: from 540 euros, available in the T+T shop
Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H
If you’re looking for an affordable mechanical chronograph with a big name on your wrist, the Intra-Matic Chrono H is a great watch to have. It has a 40mm diameter and an attractive cream-colored dial. It’s powered by the ETA H-51 caliber and is manually wound, making for a truly old-school experience. The long lugs and pump pushers are straight out of the late 1960s, and are accented with an archival Hamilton logo on the dial. Price: $2,145 USD, available at the T+T Shop
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue
The Black Bay Chrono has always been a good watch, but it’s gotten even better since Tudor decided to equip the pink model with a T-Fit Jubilee bracelet. Pink isn’t everyone’s cup of tea (or maybe not, judging by the availability of this watch), but the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a near-perfect watch to wear with a t-shirt and jeans. The Jubilee bracelet adds to the 1970s style, and while it’s still fairly chunky at 41mm x 14.4mm, it also adds less bulk on the wrist. Price: $5,675
TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11
The Monaco is a design representative of its era, and while there are many colorful variations in more exotic materials, you can’t go wrong with the Caliber 11, which is directly inspired by the 1970s original. The squared subdials and perforated leather strap are all distinctive elements, and the pusher layout is, in my humble opinion, just the way it should be. While the base module is no longer a Buren micro-rotor caliber, the Sellita/Dubois Dépraz movement retains some of the charm of the original. Price: USD 8,100
Omega Speedmaster ’57
Whether it’s its innovative design or its space-based origins, the Omega Speedmaster is one of the most iconic watches. While the Professional is certainly a mainstay of the collection, Omega has gone back to its 1950s roots with the Speedmaster ’57 collection, adding some sexy color to a vintage-inspired theme. Whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong. At 40.5mm x 13.4mm, the case is a little smaller than the Moonwatch, which suits the sleek design. Peeking out from the caseback is the METAS-certified caliber 9906, though unfortunately it’s mostly obscured by an arabesque plate. Price: USD 9,500
Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Ceramic
Zenith made some big changes to its pilot models a few years ago. Gone are the huge cases and onion-shaped crowns in favor of a sleeker, more modern design. The Pilot Big Date Flyback uses the high-frequency El Primero 3652 caliber and is technically a tricompax (ok, let’s not get into that), but what’s particularly cool is the black ceramic model. Though it’s not designed as one of the two traditional pilot’s watch types, its stealthy aesthetic works to great effect, and its large 42.5mm diameter also helps reduce visual bulk. Price: USD 13,900
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955
There are many ways to describe Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques Cornes de Vache, but the easiest is to just say it’s simply stunning. The 1955-inspired design is so beautiful that it would be hard to ruin the original, but Vacheron Constantin has done a great job reinterpreting it for a modern market. The pink gold is particularly beautiful, with the curves of the lugs being particularly striking, and the Lemania-based chronograph caliber evokes the legendary chronograph maker’s heyday. Price: USD 64,000
Petermann Beda Split Second Chronograph
Yes, the Petermann Beda’s market position is quite different compared to the Cornes de Vache, but we couldn’t resist including it in this roundup. The split-seconds chronograph already features signature Petermann Beda finishes, such as the unique arrowhead ends on the bridges. Similarities between the gear trains of this watch and the duo’s first creation, the Deadbeat Seconds, mean that there is some Valjoux 78/90 influence in the design. Unusually, the split-seconds mechanism is placed on the dial side, which naturally forced Petermann Beda to go for a semi-skeleton look that reveals the rattrapante mechanism. Price: CHF 243,000 (approx. USD 288,000)
