Borna Bosniaks
Though not obviously more affordable or accessible than its competitors in the same class, the Czapek Antarctique remains the watch of choice for enthusiasts. Aside from the Antarctique Révélation, the model has never overstated itself as a luxury watch, and this trend continues with the latest model in the collection, despite the addition of 13 sparkling diamonds. The Czapek Antarctique Flying Diamonds features a polished aventurine glass dial with diamond hour markers that are faceted in a way that was developed specifically for this watch. The result is a stunning, but very limited, variation of the Antarctique that Czapek hopes is more suited to more formal occasions.
Dial
Czapek has been on a roll with beautiful dials lately, starting with the new Promenade collection. The new Flying Diamonds are no less impressive from a technical standpoint, though, as they stand out for their incredible complexity. But first, the specs. Aventurine is a type of glass that contains inclusions of metal flakes, and was created by chance in a glass workshop on the island of Murano, long before the stone of the same name was discovered. Czapek once again worked with the dial experts at GT Cadrans to create a method of invisible setting for the tapered diamond indexes. The indexes themselves are based on a diamond cut designed exclusively for Czapek, and feature more facets than a standard baguette cut, resulting in them reflecting more light and, for lack of a better word, appearing more sparkly. Of note is that the diamonds on the Antarctique S model are noticeably smaller, at 0.325 carats in total, compared to 0.585 carats in the 40.5mm Antarctique.
Admittedly, I’m no diamond expert, but I can understand why Czapek invests in developing its own diamond cuts: even to the untrained eye, the internal reflections and the way light streams through the pointed tips of the indexes make for a stunning display, especially when you consider the reflections off the aventurine metal flakes.
Incident
While the dial is certainly more dressed up, the Antarctique’s case doesn’t lose any of its sporty functionality: it’s available in 38.5mm and 40.5mm sizes, both just 10.6mm thick, and is water resistant to 120 metres thanks to a screw-down crown.
Regardless of the size you choose, it’s hard to argue with these specs: they’re the gold standard for a versatile, everyday watch with a sporty edge. The finishing is at the level you’d expect from a watch in this price range, with ample brushing in alternating directions and no unbeveled edges.
bracelet
From a wearability perspective, where the Antarctique really stands out to me is the bracelet. At first glance, it’s a pretty standard one-piece with a butterfly clasp closure, but there’s a secret: by clicking the button next to the clasp opener, you make the most of Czapek’s fine-adjustment system, which allows you to open the first link slightly. This works very well, and while brands like Omega and Patek Philippe have adopted it on several models, it’s still rare to see it on a butterfly clasp.
A word on finishes: I’m not sure if you can choose between polished or brushed C-links like on other Antarctic models. That said, this model has a dressier look and I think a polished finish would be fine, especially considering it comes with a choice of rubber or leather straps that can be changed without tools.
motion
It’s well-known that I love micro-rotors, which is one of the reasons I’m such a fan of the brand Czapek. The SXH5 is the brand’s first movement developed without outside help (they’ve previously used Chronode and Vaucher), and it boasts a free-sprung balance, a 4Hz beat rate, a platinum micro-rotor, and a 60-hour power reserve. More than adequate specs aside, the SXH5 just looks amazing. Czapek took inspiration from old pocket watch movements for a light, clean look, and as a result, they’ve skeletonized most of the gear train and done a fair bit of hand finishing. It’s not a traditionally decorated movement, but the brand has made good use of the all-important internal angles, typified by the black-polished cock in the middle of the movement.
Verdict
This isn’t a revolutionary new product for Czapek, but it does add a new dimension to the Antarctique – a dressier dimension. Will it replace the full black-tie watch? Absolutely not, but it’s sure to turn heads at any cocktail party. That dial and the diamonds would definitely contribute to the sparkle. The rest of the formula, including the comfortable bracelet and beautiful movement, is a tried-and-true one, and as a result, there are few complaints to be had, aside from its very exclusive nature.
Czapek Antarctique Flying Diamonds Pricing and Availability
The Czapek Antarctique and Antarctique S Flying Diamonds are available in limited editions of 8 and 18 pieces respectively. Price: CHF 42,800 (Antarctique), CHF 38,000 (Antarctique S)
Brand: Czapek Model: Antarctique Flying Diamonds
Antarctic S Flying Diamond Case dimensions 40.5mm (D) x 10.6mm (T) (Antarctic)
38.5mm (D) x 10.6mm (T) (Antarctique S) Case Material Stainless Steel Water Resistance 120 meters, screw-down crown Crystal Sapphire crystal front and back Dial Aventurine crystal, diamond indexes Lug Width Integrated Strap and Bracelet Steel C-link bracelet, butterfly clasp
Additional calf leather or rubber strap Movement SXH5, in-house, micro-rotor automatic Power reserve 60 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds Stock 8 pieces (Antarctica)
18 pieces (Antarctica S) Price: 42,800 Swiss Francs (Antarctica)
38,000 Swiss Francs (Antarctica S)
