[F]Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero Watches

It’s Friday again, and it’s time for another list! This week, we’re taking a look at the wonderful world of the El Primero movement. As we all know, Zenith introduced its famous El Primero trio of watches in 1969. The brand was in a glorious race to release the first automatic chronograph, competing with Seiko and the alliance of brands Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton Buren, and Dubois-Dépraz. Over time, different brands began using the El Primero caliber. Most famously, Rolex purchased the El Primero movement to power the first automatic Daytona. However, there are many other El Primero-equipped watches worth checking out. For this list, we’ve picked our five favorites.

One of the most fun things about working at Fratello is digging up watches from the past together. When we discussed the topic for this week’s list, a wide variety of candidates came up. In the end, it was pretty tough to choose our five favorites, but we found that Zenith’s El Primero movement powers some interesting watches. This topic has definitely inspired us to look for some cool watches to add to our collection. So, without further ado, here are our five favorite watches featuring the legendary El Primero movement.

Zenith El Primero A384

Let’s start with the obvious choice. Or maybe not for some. Given the choice, most people would choose the Zenith El Primero A386 over the A384. The A384’s case shape is controversial but more distinctive. I prefer it over the A386, but there’s nothing wrong with either (or the A385). The El Primero A384 features a blocky 37mm case that’s 13mm thick, including the domed crystal.

Image: The Watch Boutique

The watch was fitted with the famous Gay Frères ladder bracelet, a distinctive feature of the A384, but one that has not stood the test of time. Many of these bracelets are now in poor condition and will need a good cleaning as they have a fair amount of unwanted material on the wrist.

Image: The Watch Boutique

Now, there are many vintage A384s with discolored dials. Often the panda dials have been changed to cream dials with brown scales. What’s interesting is that these discolored models look very similar to the A385, which debuted with a gradient brown dial. But of course, they also change color over time, and many of them look very good.

Image: Knightsbridge Clock

The legendary first-generation El Primero movement

Inside the case is the Caliber 3019 PHC, a first generation El Primero movement. This high-beat caliber operates at 36,600vph and has a power reserve of 50 hours. This integrated chronograph caliber with a horizontal clutch is generally considered premium in the watch industry. However, the initial production run of the El Primero movement was short-lived due to the quartz revolution.

Image: Knightsbridge Clock

Production of the El Primero caliber resumed in the 1980s due to demand for superior chronograph movements by Ebel and Rolex. However, the El Primero tradition began with three great watches that became Zenith’s icons. For the A384 in particular, expect prices to start at around 12,000 euros and rise to 25,000 euros for examples in good condition.

Image: The Watch Club

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16520

Another classic with the Zenith El Primero movement is the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 16520. As we all know, Rolex ordered a large number of El Primero calibers for the first generation of automatic Daytonas. The watch was produced from 1988 to 2000 and had a black or white dial. Although there were only two dial colors, collectors distinguish at least five different dial types, including the famous “Patrizzi” dial with its discoloured subdial rings and the “Porcelain” dial.

Image: The Watch Club

Inside the Daytona’s case is the Rolex caliber 4030. The original El Primero movement was extensively modified to bring it up to Rolex production standards. The most significant change was to reduce the operating frequency to 28,800 vph. Additionally, Rolex watchmakers removed the date complication and installed a new escapement with a free-sprung Glucydur balance wheel, Microstella adjustment screws, and a Breguet overcoil. These changes replaced half of the original components. However, the result was a caliber that was generally superior and reliable as Rolex’s first automatic chronograph movement.

Image: The Watch Club

Finding an El Primero-equipped Daytona Ref. 16520 isn’t hard, but you’ll need to be prepared to pay a pretty penny: prices start at around €17,000 and go up to €80,000 for rare dial variants. But most importantly, this generation of Rolex’s famous chronograph will forever be known as the “Zenith Daytona.”

Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph ref. 1134901

Next up is a watch owned by Robert Jan and worn by most of the Fratello staff. The Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph was first released in 1982 and made famous by Don Johnson wearing it in Miami Vice. He wore the full gold version, while RJ had the bicolor version. As he explains in his article about the watch, there was also a steel version with a white gold bezel.

Whatever you choose, the watch’s design is instantly recognisable and a great example of what made ’80s design great. But in true ’80s fashion, opt for the two-tone version. The combination of gold and steel looks ultra-luxurious, and the gold elements on the dial give the watch great character.

This watch features a 38mm case with a thickness of 11mm and a lug-to-lug length of 42mm. It comes on a beautiful wave bracelet that tapers gracefully from 20mm wide to 15mm wide. This bracelet design is well-known in the industry and still looks very cool today.

Ebel began using Zenith 3019 PHC movements in its Sport Classic Chronographs. After Zenith resumed production of the El Primero with the caliber 40.0 in 1986, Ebel switched to that version, and later to the caliber 400. Although Ebel today is a far cry from the brand of the past, the Sport Classic Chronograph is a great reminder of the heyday. Prices for this watch start at around 2,500 euros and can go up to 5,000 euros in good condition.

Image: Vintage Watch Reader

Movado El Primero Chronograph Ref. 01.0180.434

Next up, a rare watch. As some of you may know, Zenith and Movado were under the same ownership from the late ’60s to the late ’70s. During that time, the two companies shared models under different brands. This Movado El Primero Chronograph ref. 01.0180.434 is a great example of one such collaboration. Another was the famous Zenith El Primero “Big Blue,” featuring a case in the shape of a television screen, which was also sold as Movado.

Image: Vintage Watch Reader

The model we chose is available in three different dial versions. The first one has the Zenith branding, the second has the Movado logo, and the last one has both brands’ logos on the dial. The Movado version also has “Automatic El Primero” written on it, and there is also a version with the text “Automatic Chronograph El Primero”. The dual-branded version does not have the “El Primero” inscription, but just has the word “Automatic”.

Image: Vintage Watch Reader

Image: Vintage Watch Reader

The case of this watch is 38mm in diameter, 12mm thick, and 42mm long lug-to-lug. These proportions are still very acceptable today, making this a great vintage option. What I love about this watch is the monochrome presence and distinctive bracelet. Even though it is from the early 1970s, it still looks very timeless. Zenith and Movado are thought to have only produced 500 pieces of this beautiful chronograph. Inside the case is the caliber 3019 PHC, which is also found in other watches on this list. Although production numbers are low, it is possible to find this watch. Expect prices to start at around 3,000 euros and go up to 5,000 euros in good condition.

Image: WatchUSeek

Panerai Luminor Chrono PAM00121

Our last pick is also a rare watch. As some of you may know, starting in the early 2000s, Panerai also used Zenith’s El Primero movement in some of their models. The PAM00072, PAM00121, and PAM00122 all featured Zenith’s famous movement. We chose the Panerai Luminor Chrono PAM00121 from 2002.

Image: WatchUseek

Apparently, Panerai planned to produce 1,500 pieces of this model, but ended up making no more than 250. The watch features a 40mm brushed titanium case that is 15mm thick, has a 22mm lug spacing, and is water resistant to 200m. The case is paired with a stainless steel bezel that has a tachymeter scale engraved in black.

Image: Bruce-Bigb (WatchUSeek)

This model features a dark grey dial with silver sub-registers. The date window at 4:30 gives away that it is powered by an El Primero-based movement. An unusual detail is the “Automatic Chrono” text located just above the subdial at 6 o’clock. Panerai could have left this text off the dial and made it look better.

Image: Bruce-Bigb (WatchUSeek)

Inside the case is the Panerai Caliber OP IV, which began life as the Zenith El Primero Caliber 400Z. Panerai fitted this movement with a branded rotor that is visible through a sapphire window on the back. As mentioned above, the PAM00121 is fairly rare, so it doesn’t come up for sale regularly. If it does sell, it’s expected to sell for around 5,000-9,000 euros.

Final Thoughts on Our List of Classic Zenith El Primero Watches

We have presented five watches with the Zenith El Primero movement. It’s amazing how the El Primero heritage goes far beyond the history of Zenith. We love all five models, but we’re curious which one you like best. Let us know your choice in the comments. See you again next week with a new list!