If we look back at the history of watchmaking over the past 150 years, we find that most of the watches people wore were elegant (by today’s standards). It wasn’t until the beginning of modern warfare in the early 20th century that watches became more practical, both visually and mechanically, with simpler designs, better movements, and generally better specifications. A prime example of this is the Rolex Explorer, often described as the quintessential all-around sports watch. However, the majority of watches today, especially when looking at the micro/independent market, aim to be “tough” rather than “elegant.”
It’s not often that we see an indie brand venture into elegant timepieces, especially a different kind of elegance, which is why I’m excited to tell you about the Jack Mason Elm Manual Wind. You’re probably familiar with this Texas brand, as I’ve written about them before. Strato-o-timer and Hydro Timer In the past, the brand existed as a Texas watch brand. Founder Peter Cho is constantly working on refining the brand’s identity to make it more Texas and more unique. And I have already argued that the Elm Manual Wind is the perfect embodiment of what Peter is trying to accomplish. This model walks a fine line between old and new, and I’ll let you decide in the comments whether it’s “mission accomplished” for Peter.
Redefining the Dress Watch (or Not)
What a watch genre is or isn’t is a subjective matter, so I’ll be cautious here. But we can probably agree on some common characteristics that dress watches are generally considered to have. Indeed, aesthetically, dress watches fit the classic definition of the word “elegant.” JLC Master Control Ultra Thin or Rolex Perpetual 1908 Elegant. This usually comes down to non-luminous, polished, applied hour markers, barebones features, poor water resistance, and shiny parts. An elegant watch can tell you the time, but it won’t take you for a walk on the moon. A dress watch “looks good” with a suit or evening dress, but is out of place with a t-shirt while cooking burgers on the weekend. Well, that’s some people’s opinion, not mine.
But things change, and they stay the same. It is now accepted that a sports watch with an integrated bracelet can be elegant, but we rarely put it in the “dress” category. It is now as common to wear a Rolex Submariner to the office as it is to chop firewood with a Cartier Tank. But the Submariner is a tool watch, and the Tank is a dress watch. I would therefore argue that the Jacques Masson Elm Manual Wind is “dressy” in the traditional sense of the word. That is exactly what Peter was aiming for when he redesigned the Elm collection (you can see an older version here). He was trying to create something that could later become an “icon” of the brand. I know these are grand ambitions, but I hope what follows will support this claim.
Classic Features of the Jack Mason Elm Manual Wind
Now that we have a general idea of what a dress watch looks like, let’s take a closer look at the Elm Manual Wind. First, the dial has a classic layout, including polished baton-shaped hour markers, leaf-shaped polished hands, and a framed date window at 3 o’clock. The date wheel does not match the dial color, and the numbers are black. Except for the date window, the Elm Manual Wind’s dial is symmetrical. I particularly like the length of the hands and their alignment with the hour markers. In addition, Peter kept the branding to a minimum, placing the brand’s Texas Lone Star logo above the pinion and the model name in small white letters below it. As such, the Elm Manual Wind has an easy-to-read, well-balanced dial, which is a hallmark of a dress watch.
The case further contributes to making the Elm Manual Wind an elegant watch. It is thin (9mm), perfectly polished, and features a small push/pull crown. The lugs are short and narrow, forming a thin mid-case, separating the fixed bezel from the see-through case back. In other words, the Elm Manual Wind case is long and thin. In my humble opinion, this makes this model rather elegant and classically dressy. I know most watches have round cases, but this one is especially round, which I think perfectly outlines the large dial with its long hands and applied hour markers.
Where Peter’s experience and creativity shine
With that in mind, let’s take a look at what sets the Jack Mason Elm Manual Wind apart. The star here is the linen texture woven into the dial, which is familiar yet innovative. We’re familiar with this texture because brands have used it for decades, but what’s innovative is the way Jack Mason has applied it. A machine etches lines of varying thickness and depth, in different directions, and somewhat randomly, making each dial unique. This texture intensifies depending on the lighting conditions. Plus, I think this pattern looks especially interesting when combined with the color of this dial (green) and the hands and markers. It really stands out!
The applied hour markers mentioned earlier are also a time-honored design. But in this model, the alternating brushed tops and polished bevels create an interesting play of textures that are executed to perfection. And the angled portion of the hour markers that points inward toward the center of the dial adds a certain charm that subtly enhances the dial’s elegance. But what makes the Elm Manual Wind both Texan and contemporary are the various nods to Peter’s home state, including the Lone Star logo and the tricolor tail (the colors of Texas) on the seconds hand.
In other words, I would argue that Peter has successfully blended Jack Mason’s visual identity with a proven type of watch design – a dress watch, which generally adheres to strict design codes.
Ellum Manual Wind Specifications
But for those who don’t like the full spec sheet of this model, all of the above may not be that important. Dimensionally, the Ellum Manual Wind is 38mm in diameter, 45mm in length, 9mm in thickness, and 20mm in width between the lugs. The top and bottom of the watch are adorned with sapphire crystal, and the case is water resistant to 50m. As you can see in the pictures, the Swiss movement inside is very good. It’s a hand-wound Sellita SW210, which runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz) and has a power reserve of 42 hours. Jack Mason has taken it a step further by regulating the movement to run at ±5 seconds per day. Finally, the Ellum Manual Wind is shipped on a brown Italian Epsom leather strap with quick release spring bars.
Conclusion
Well, what do you think? Jack Mason Elm Hand-wound? We can all agree that this brand has indeed made a modern dress watch. It has a unique charm and respectable specifications, and we appreciate the texture of the dial, the Texas identity, and the great looking movement. We hope you like the look of this watch. If not, we understand that this type of watch and the way Jack Mason/Peter approached this project are not for everyone. One last important piece of information: the watch retails for $949.
