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Spain may not be the first country that springs to mind when it comes to luxury watches, but it’s home to one of the most underrated independent watch brands: Atelier du Chronométrie. Though not named after Spain, the Barcelona-based brand has been around for nearly a decade, creating beautiful mid-century-inspired timepieces powered by restored and reworked vintage movements. But this year marks a big change for the brand, as their first in-house caliber, the M284, is neatly housed in a 37.5mm Calatrava-inspired case. Before we dig into the development of the new Atelier du Chronométrie AdC22 and M284 movement, let’s take a trip back to the coffee shop where it all began.
Behind the Brand
Not only is Barcelona home to Spain’s best football club (hate it?), it’s also the birthplace of the Atelier du Chronométrie. Led by a team consisting of designer and vintage connoisseur Santiago Martínez, Barcelona watchmaking school graduates Eduardo Mercade and Moebius Rasmann, and marketing and vintage expert Montse Jimeno, the brand launched its first watch in 2016. Powered by a restored and hand-decorated OMEGA caliber 266, it was certified by the Besançon Observatory, making it the first watch in Spain to be Observatoire Chronométrie-certified.
Never one to rest on their laurels, the Spanish brand launched a stunning rattrapante chronograph in 2020. AdC8 took an old Venus 185 and replaced 50 of its 280 components, crafting it entirely by hand. The ARCAP copper alloy is exquisitely decorated with sharp angles, polishing and graining in 18K pink gold plating, as are all the other steel parts. Note also the blackened and polished countersunk holes in the heat-discolored steel screws, and some of the jewels are set with 18K gold chatons.
The AdC21OW’s offering at the 2021 edition of the OnlyWatch Charity Auction has brought it even more mainstream recognition. Still using an Omega movement, this time the Caliber 283, Atelier de Chronométrie has shown its own flair with its stunning interior angles, frosted plates and polished steel parts. The Sector/Scientific pink gold dial is perfectly matched with the yellow gold case, which was entirely handcrafted, including the soldering of the lugs. The buyer clearly thought the same, paying double the high estimate, a total of CHF 95,000.
AdC22 and M284
This is the brand’s latest offering, and while still a prototype, the M284 caliber lacks none of the finishing touches you’d expect from Ateliers de Chronométrie, as does the overall design of the AdC22.
Let’s start with the dial. Ateliers de Chronométrie has previously used a galvanized finish, but this time they’ve created a pseudo-sector layout with large minute markers, silvered hour markers, and circular indices. Running across the silvered area is Ateliers de Chronométrie’s signature railway track small seconds, set against an azure-finished small seconds subdial. I particularly like the hands on the AdC22, as the finish gives them a unique three-dimensional look.
The AdC22’s proportions also fit the midcentury aesthetic. The stainless steel model shown here is clearly reminiscent of the Calatrava case. The polished tips of the lugs contrast with the brushed stepped bezel and mid-case, and the large handcrafted crown sits flush against the case. With a diameter of 37.5mm and a thickness of just 9mm, the Atelier de Chronométrie AdC22 is the perfect size to appeal to its target demographic.
While the new M284 caliber resembles many of the vintage ébauches the brand has used in the past, including its 30mm diameter, Ateliers de Chronométrie is proud to say that it was “built from the ground up” with the help of Luca Soprana. While Soprana’s name rarely appears in the same headlines as Giroux, Coudret, or Voutilainen, Mr. Soprana and his Atelier 7H38 have developed some of Jacob & Co.’s wildest creations, including the Astronomia and its many iterations. The specs for the M284, which will be the movement that will power all of AdC’s time-only pieces, also evoke those movements of old, consisting of 19 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve.
The design of the plates and bridges, and the adoption of a swan-neck regulator to control the slow oscillations of the large screwed balance, are all characteristic of movements from decades ago. The large top plate’s Côtes de Genève transition from one sharp peak to the next, interrupted only by the blackened polished screws and jewel countersinks, and even the screws are beveled. Of particular note are the fine chamfers along the edges of the top plate, with the four interior angles reflecting the rhodium plating of the entire movement.
The Atelier de Chronométrie AdC22 is the complete package. The movement, its decoration, and the overall design that stays true to its origins clearly demonstrate that the brand’s top brass has a firm grasp of the field. That said, the €60,000 price tag is quite high for a watch of this style and is in line with the pricing strategy of past AdC releases, but it may not be the most attractive option, especially when compared to more mainstream time-only offerings.
Price and availability of Atelier de Chronométrie AdC22:
The Atelier de Chronométrie AdC22 is made to order. Price excluding VAT: 60,000 Euro (stainless steel), 65,000 Euro (18K gold)
Brand Atelier de Chronométrie Model AdC22 Case Size 37.5mm (D) x 9mm (T) Case Material Stainless Steel
18K gold Water resistance 30 meters Dial Pink and silver sector galvanized dial Crystal Sapphire crystal front and back Strap Brown aged leather strap with stainless steel pin buckle Movement In-house caliber M284, collaboration with Luca Soprana, manual winding, 18,000 vph Power reserve 38 hours Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds Availability Made to order Price 60,000 Euro (stainless steel)
€65,000 (18K gold)
