[F]My dream Omega Speedmaster is a rare NASA watch

In this edition of Speedy Tuesday, we present a truly beautiful prototype of the Omega Speedmaster. NASA introduced a version of my dreams in the early 1970s, but unfortunately it never made it into a production model.

The Omega Speedmaster needs no introduction. It’s no exaggeration to say that the Speedmaster is one of the most iconic watch designs not just of the mid-20th century, but of all time. It is also a watch that I have never owned, nor have I ever seriously coveted. In fact, I currently own no Omega watches, either vintage or modern (this has to change). It seems overdue to write about this sad state of affairs, but what better occasion than Speedy Tuesday?

Why don’t I own an Omega Speedmaster?

Maybe I’ve avoided the Speedmaster because it’s such an iconic watch (almost the default choice for serious watch enthusiasts). Objectively, the Speedmaster Professional is a beautiful piece of watch design. The lyre lugs and short lug-to-lug length make it feel like you’re wearing something a little smaller than a 42mm case. As any Speedmaster owner will attest, the Speedmaster Professional feels much closer to a 40mm watch on the wrist.

I’ve been in Omega boutiques many times to try on the Speedy Pro. Since at least 2019, I’ve performed this little ritual every time I find myself in a boutique: I’ve tried on the current and previous models of the Speedmaster in an Omega boutique. Each time, I’ve left the store appreciating the watch and feeling a little excited to have tried it on, but I’ve never felt the urge to buy it.

It’s not because it’s hard to get

The same can be said about the many opportunities I have had to purchase second-hand. The Omega Speedmaster is, thankfully, a very popular watch in Australia, which means that second-hand examples of all types come up for sale quite frequently. This includes smaller versions, various special and limited editions, as well as the standard 42mm models. Prices vary depending on the condition and the particular model being sold, but generally seem to be very reasonable on the second-hand market.

Astronaut Vance Brand wore a Speedmaster with a 60-minute bezel during training in 1975 — Image: NASA

I like the Speedmaster ’57 “replica” owned by my colleagues Gerald, Rex and RJ, as it has a different design aesthetic that is more reminiscent of the 1950s than the 1960s. There’s a certain boldness to this watch’s broad arrow hour hand that I find appealing. The steel bezel also simplifies the watch, giving it a more “tool-like” look. If I were to pick a modern reissue, it would probably be the reference 3594.50, a Speedmaster design from before it became a cultural icon of space adventure.

Original drawing from September 1972, detailing the counter arrangement and dimensions of the Alaska II radial dial.

But for me, the perfect Speedmaster does exist…

There is indeed an Omega Speedmaster that makes my heart flutter (or appeals to the lizard part of my brain), and I only recently discovered it. However, I did myself a huge disservice in finding one of the “perfect” Omega Speedmasters. While trawling the internet as I usually do, and going through my photo archives, I came across several forum posts and articles about Omega Speedmasters with radial dials.

These were experimental dial designs that Omega introduced when adapting the Speedmaster for NASA astronauts. The radial design is also the dial layout that Fratello and Omega used on the Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday “Tribute to Alaska III.”

Image: Radial Project

Image: Omegamike from the Omega forum

Now, there are serious experts out there, so I won’t go too far into this historical territory, but I will state my appreciation for the unusual design and bezels that some of these watches had. In historical NASA images, astronauts are seen wearing either a radial dial Speedmaster or a regular dial Speedmaster with a 60-minute bezel. The Speedmaster with a 60-minute bezel is a phenomenal design. When I stumbled across some of these images, I knew I had found the Speedmaster of my dreams.

Al Warden with a Speedmaster with a 60-minute bezel — Image: NASA

NASA and the Omega Speedmaster with a 60-Minute Bezel

Al Worden was one of the astronauts who was photographed wearing an experimental watch design. During training prior to the Apollo 15 mission, Worden was photographed wearing a Speedmaster with a 60-minute bezel. Not many photos of this watch have been found, and from what I have read so far it appears that the watch Worden went into space with was a standard Speedmaster, as photos of him after landing show the regular production watch.

Image: NASA

So now we have two completely different design elements: (A) a radial dial design and B) a 60-minute bezel. Let’s add a third one (C) a white dial) to make a perfect three-part design. Combine these elements and you have what I have in my mind as the “perfect” Omega Speedmaster. Unfortunately, this is an impossible request. In the image below you can see what my “perfect” Omega Speedmaster watch looks like.

This is my ultimate Speedmaster! — Image: OMEGA

So what’s out there that could satisfy my craving for a Speedmaster?

So, I’ve picked an unlikely watch. So what’s the next best thing? Well, there is a special edition Omega Speedmaster that I would love to own, but it’s a bit hard to come by in Australia. That watch is the 2008 re-issue of the Omega Speedmaster Alaska II. We looked into the history of the Speedmaster Alaska II at Fratello, and RJ here points out the differences and similarities between the vintage original and the 2008 re-issue.

Image: Hairspring

The 2008 model is fitted with Omega’s trusty 1861 caliber, which is an improvement over the original cam-operated 861. This re-issue also has a beautiful white dial with “capsule-type” hands for the chronograph counters and a striking red chronograph seconds hand. This watch is truly a work of industrial beauty. In the image above you can compare the latest 2008 model with the original pictured above it. It’s remarkable how well Omega has captured the charm of the original with this re-issue. If only it had a radial dial and a 60-minute bezel!

Conclusion

This is my first foray into Speedy Tuesday. As I slowly learn more about the world of the Omega Speedmaster, I appreciate and love it more and more. If I could get my hands on a 2008 Alaska II reissue at a reasonable price, I would buy it in a heartbeat. The unusual dial design and story behind the watch make it an incredibly attractive proposition. Thanks to Flightqualified (aka Omega Mike) for sharing images on Instagram of his project proposing to modify a Speedmaster 60-minute bezel.

Until that day comes, if it ever comes, I’ll continue to admire the Speedmaster from afar. But what about you, Fratelli? Which version of the Speedmaster is your favorite? Let me know in the comments. I’ll Google it.