Time + Tide
The GPHG (Grand Prix de la Watchmaking Genève) has always been referred to as the Oscars of the watch industry. Like the Oscars, the awards generate a lot of buzz and controversy when the nominees are announced, and this year is no exception. We asked each member of our team to choose just one favorite watch from all the nominated watches, as well as one watch that wasn’t nominated but that they think should have been.
Borna’s Favorite: Otsuka Rotec No.6
While I don’t have the luxury of spending endless amounts of money on the eventual winners of the Aiguille d’Or, and indeed on most of the other nominees, the Challenge category is always the most interesting to me. Here, I would like to give a special shout-out to the Furlan Mari Disco Verde, which brilliantly revived a design from the past. However, I cannot help but vote, with great hesitation, for Otsuka Rotec. Let me explain. First, Jiro Katayama produces his own modules for retrograde time display, and the design perfectly captures the low-tech (hence the name) intent of the brand. Moreover, these watches remain affordable without overstepping the design constraints (such as gigantic proportions or unusual design choices) due to their low cost. So why am I so hesitant? I’ve been wanting one ever since the original No.6 was released in 2022. The brand has yet to reach mainstream recognition, and I’m happy that it’s finally getting there, but considering that this watch is only available in Japan, it will be even harder to get hold of now.
Borna’s disqualification vote: Kalinic Kreis Einzer Zentralsecunde
When two former Lange watchmakers spend just two years developing a new watch from the ground up, you can bet the result will be amazing. And it was, which is why I can’t understand why the Kalinich Kreis Einser Zentralsecunde didn’t make the list of nominees. This watch will easily beat out multiple contenders in the time-only and men’s categories and be one of the most exciting releases in recent years. Just to give you a bit of background, developing the case was one of the most challenging parts, as it had to incorporate a sapphire crystal window on the side to show off the power reserve. The case itself is machined from a single piece of steel, the dial is naturally hand-guilloched or mosaic-engraved, and the circle surrounding the minute track and logo is hand-hammered. I love a good handset, and the Einser is one of the best I’ve ever seen (though I haven’t seen one in person yet). It has a beveled center and a flat brushed perimeter.
But the real attraction is in the caseback of the in-house developed KC001.1. It’s manual-wound, the bridges and plates are made of wonderfully warm German silver, and there’s not a single bevel that isn’t beveled. The gear teeth are angled, all the screws are blued (obviously), the colorless gems are set in gold chatons, and the polished steel pieces define the meaning of black polish. Since this watch was only recently released, it’s understandable if it missed the cutoff, but the Einzer is actually listed on the GPHG website, which leads us to believe it was entered, making it even harder to understand why it missed out on the nomination.
Jamie’s Favorite: Capek Promenade Good Do
I chose two watches with beautiful dials. There were some very technical watches nominated for this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, such as the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar and the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, but I decided to go back to basics and choose two watches that move me with the beauty of their dials (interestingly, they are in different categories). My favorite of all the competitors in the Time Only category is the Czapek Promenade Goutte d’Eau, the most elegant and inspiring watch in this year’s competition. The Grand Feu enamel is understated but very exquisite. The textured ripples that radiate from the small seconds are a great touch, like water droplets in a pond. It’s so rich that you’ll want to dive into the dial. It’s deceptively simple, but to me, that’s the essence of a great watch that just tells the time.
Jamie’s Voted Off: Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser
Entered in the “Petite Aiguille” category (watches with a retail price between 3,000 and 10,000 CHF, one of the most-entered categories this year), the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser is easy to overlook if you don’t know anything about it. The ProPilot X Calibre 400 is a great watch, but it’s not new. What’s interesting here is the laser dial, which employs a technique never before seen in watchmaking. Buffy explains it in detail here, but in a nutshell, it features a stunningly glowing blue-green optical effect that resembles the irises of a butterfly’s wings or a beetle’s exoskeleton. What’s especially cool is that this effect is achieved entirely through high-tech laser etching. There’s no pigment in the dial at all. It’s not paint, it’s biomimicry. It’s insanely cool! Perhaps if Oris had debuted this innovative technology on a dressier watch and entered it in the Time Only category, it would have been nominated.
Russell’s Favorite: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Subscription
For those who know my background in the industry, this choice will come as no surprise. I worked at A Collected Man for many years and had the good fortune of working with many of the original Daniel Roth models made in the late 1980s and early 1990s, so when the brand relaunched last year, I was thrilled to see the incredible attention to detail in every aspect. The combination of exceptional finishing, superb watchmaking by La Fabrique du Temps, and a true dedication to the originals from Jean Arnault, the pinnacle of Louis Vuitton watchmaking, has resulted in a stunning final product.
I recently got to hold this watch at Geneva Watch Days and it is one of those watches that really looks better in the metal. The depth of the tourbillon cage on the dial creates a wonderful effect, making you feel like you can dive in and admire it from every angle. There has been a debate in this industry for years about too many reissues, but this is definitely within my league. The exceptional craftsmanship of this watch was not fully showcased until the recent launch of the standard production model in rose gold at Geneva Watch Days, which added a sapphire caseback. And now we know what lies beneath the very limited closed caseback of this Souscription model. It’s a no-brainer for me in the tourbillon category this year.
Russell’s vote was ignored: Anoma A1
Speaking as someone who has never founded anything, I can’t imagine how hard it really is to start your own watch brand without any entrepreneurial experience. So it was a surprise to see that the efforts of young Matteo Violet Vianello, who launched Anoma earlier this year and released its first asymmetrical model, the A1, have paid off. He recently appeared on a panel with a number of other noteworthy young brands, two of which were nominated, specifically Berneron and Massena LAB, and it’s fair to say the rest were easily ignored. But if you had to pick one from that impressive group, it would be hard to overlook Anoma.
The Anoma A1’s symmetrical design is based on organic design principles, with smooth, pebble-like shapes derived from mid-century furniture. It has been compared to a variety of watches, including the Hamilton Ventura and Patek Philippe Gilbert Albert designs, but I’m a big fan of this watch. It’s minimalist without skimping on any aspect of the design, making it a worthy challenger.
Buffy’s Favorite: Burneron Mirage Sienna
One look at Bergeron’s Mirage Sienna might make you think, “This is a homage to the Cartier Crush, just a bit more normal and not Cartier, right?” Honestly, even if that were true, I wouldn’t care. My fascination with watches these days is based solely on appearance, the weirder the better. I crave for watches to get weirder and weirder, not just at the luxury end, but also at affordable watches. But the Mirage Sienna, born from the mind of Sylvain Berneron, isn’t just weird for weirdness’ sake. The design started with the Cercle des Horloges caliber CH233 and built it from the ground up with no limitations on the layout, allowing everything to be optimized without compromise. The case and dial were then built around it, embracing a lack of symmetry and a warped, Dali-esque psychedelicism. The only thing trippier than the dial is the decoration of the movement.
Buffy votes off: Audemars Piguet (RE)Master02
Audemars Piguet did not receive a single nomination in this year’s GPHG. There is a limit to how much praise you can give any version of the Royal Oak, but AP did have one release that was worthy of recognition. Audemars Piguet is the only member of the Swiss trinity that does not explore its rich historical releases much, so it was a shock when the (RE)Master 02 was announced. The asymmetrical slab-like case strongly recalls the imposing concrete structures built after World War II. This style, semi-affectionately called Brutalism, is a staple of modernist art that has permeated watchmaking.
Modeled on the extremely rare vintage ref. 5159BA from 1960, the (RE)Master 02 is undoubtedly a bold model. While the modern sizing up to 41mm has been criticized, I see it more as a feature of the fortified megastructures that still characterize some cities today. It may not be an entirely new design, but considering Audemars Piguet is one of the ultimate trendsetters in watchmaking, I hope to see a resurgence of interest in modernist case shapes. I would place this model in the “iconic” or “time-only” category.
