Formex is sometimes considered an independent brand, but it is one of the few brands that sits on the border between the independent and regular watch markets. Independent because they operate independently and produce a lot of innovative technology and unique designs; regular because the quality of Formex watches is comparable to established Swiss brands. After the huge success of the 43mm version in 2019, the Formex Essence 39 released in 2020 truly revolutionized the independent watch market. Although the brand didn’t know it, the Essence set a new standard for all micro and independent brands that exist today.
To give a brief overview of the brand’s 20+ year history, Formex was founded in 1999 and was known for making big, bold sports watches. In 2016, the brand was taken over by current CEO Rafael Granito and was officially relaunched in 2019 with a Kickstarter campaign and the Essence 43mm. The latter borrowed one key innovation from the previous version of Formex, the case suspension system, but showcased a whole new approach to design. The Essence 39, which we expand on here, is the smaller sibling of the original Essence, a model that took the independent watch market by storm. The Essence 39 case, with its sharp angles, modest proportions, and pretty damn good finishing, is what made the model so popular in the first place.
Incident
The Essence measures 39mm in diameter, 45mm lug-to-lug length, 10mm thick and 20mm lug width. The case has a flat sided profile, short, sturdy lugs and a fixed bezel atop the aforementioned case suspension system. The latter consists of a spring, which allows the module containing the movement and dial to rise when you bend your wrist, while the rest of the case remains stationary. This unique innovation protects the movement from small shocks and increases the wearing comfort when bending the wrist. The case has a majority of brushed surfaces, except for thin polished chamfers, and the fixed bezel alternates between a vertical brushed section at the top and polished sides.
The Essence 39’s case back is a see-through construction made of flat sapphire crystal, topped by another flat sapphire crystal. The small, easy-to-grip push-pull crown is unique in that you must pull it hard to move it from the date-setting position to the time-setting position. This little trick gives the watch the same protection against water/dust/foreign objects as a screw-down crown. (When the crown is in the “zero” position, i.e. fully pushed in, the movement can be wound.) This unique crown and stem construction, along with the screw-down case back, make the Essence 39 water resistant to 100 meters.
Dial
As the model name suggests, Essence encapsulates Formex’s vision for everyday watches, and more specifically, Raphael Granito’s. The dial is easy to read and beautiful to look at, featuring horizontal CNC lines and vertical brushing. The faceted applied hour markers are moderately sized, take advantage of the light, and are generously lumed to make them easy to see in low light. The unique looking hands are equally proportionate to the dial, brushed on the top and polished on the sides. It’s as if a little flap hides the timepiece when you look at it from directly below, and reappears when you look at it at an angle. Below the 12 o’clock marker, you’ll find the applied logo and the word “Formex” in fine print. You’ll also find the words “Essence” and “Chronometer” below the pinion, or just above the date window, which is fitted with a beveled-sided, color-matched date wheel. Plus, the inconspicuous minute markings are printed on the sloping rehaut, making it easy for even an OCD person like me to set the exact time.
Finally, the Essence 39 is available in 10 different dial variations, ranging from blue, black, white, red, and green to malachite, meteorite, and mother-of-sky versions, with several variations in between. Formex seems to be releasing unique and exclusive dial variations of the Essence on a regular basis in order to tickle the interest of more watch enthusiasts in the timepiece.
strap
The Essence 39 comes with a stainless steel bracelet, or a leather or rubber strap. The version we have here comes with a bracelet that is great in itself. Everything is sturdy, the links have brushed top sections and polished bevels, screws, quick-release spring bars, and three tricks that make it comfortable to wear and extremely versatile. First, the double-pusher butterfly clasp is held in place by ball bearings, and you have to use a little force to unlatch the left side, meaning the bracelet can’t accidentally open. Additionally, Formex offers 1.5 links, making it easy to find the perfect fit, and it has a built-in micro-extension (about 5mm) for those hot days. As for the straps, there are three leather options (brown, blue, and black) and one black rubber strap. All have curved ends to match the shape of the case and quick-release spring bars. Formex has paired the straps with a unique deployant clasp made from forged carbon fiber with on-the-fly micro-adjustment capabilities.
motion
Formex equips all its models with Swiss Sellita movements. The Essence 39 is the brand’s core collection and is equipped with the COSC Sellita SW200-1 caliber, which vibrates at 28,800 BP (4Hz) and has a power reserve of 38 hours. Formex provides a COSC report card for each movement to show the movement’s performance. The SW200-1 is a reliable and robust movement that is the choice of many brands. As it is a chronometer version, it also looks beautiful thanks to the see-through caseback.
Formex Essence 39 Pricing and Availability:
Various models of the Formex Essence 39 are available to purchase from the Formex website. Price: Starting at $1,480 USD/$2,380 AU (strap)/$1,590 USD/$2,590 AU (bracelet)
Brand Formex Model Essence 39 Case Size 39mm x 45mm x 10mm Case Material Stainless Steel Water Resistance 100m Crystal Sapphire Dial Blue, Black, Green, White, Red, Gradient + Limited Edition Lug Width 20mm Strap 3-Link Stainless Steel Bracelet / Black, Blue, Brown Leather Strap / Black Rubber Strap Movement Sellita SW200-1 COSC Calibre Power Reserve 38 Hours Availability Available Now Price Strap US$1,480 (AU$2,380) / Bracelet US$1,780 – $1,890 (AU$2,700 – $2,910)
