Borna Bosniaks
One of the more distinct watch design languages was the Art Deco era, which gave birth to iconic designs like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and Cartier Tank, as well as lesser known but clearly representative pieces like the Vacheron Constantin 1921 with its beveled dial. Not only did this period see case designs become more refined and obviously squared off, but it also ushered in the era of sector dials. Often called scientific or railroad dials, these names refer to the precisely differentiated units of time and the appearance of a printed railway track, useful when precise measurements are needed. While early examples date back to the early 20th century, sector dials followed the rise in popularity of Art Deco, bursting onto the scene during the Roaring Twenties and, less remembered, the Great Depression of the 1930s. From Tissot to Rolex, IWC to Patek Philippe, nearly every manufacturer was looking to grab a slice (sector?) of the market, and these pieces have inspired many of the contemporary pieces featured on this list.
Merkur Pierre Paulan Sector
If you’re not sure if the Sector is for you, a great place to start is with Merkur’s Pierre Paulin Salmon Sector. For those who haven’t yet navigated the unchartered waters of AliExpress, Merkur is one of the most highly rated affordable microbrands, offering great specs at a very low price. You can find it on sale for around $100. With a diameter of 38.5mm and a beautiful domed mineral crystal, it’s a very attractive proposition, especially considering how well the dial is finished for the price. Named after a French interior designer, the Sector features a mix of circular brushed, frosted and azure finishes, and beautiful skeletonized blued hands. Price: $119
Baltic MR Roulette
Indeed, the Baltic MR has been on many “best” lists, and it’s well-deserved. With a modern case size of 37mm, especially compared to the early to mid-30mm sizes of the ’30s, the MR Roulette also offers a sector option. Powered by an affordable micro-rotor movement, it has become one of Baltic’s best sellers due to its design and the unique movement in its price range. While perhaps not the most traditional sector dial example, it is certainly a very beautiful watch. Price: 545 Euros (approx. $600 USD) at T+T Shop
Furlan Mari x Time+Tide Outback Elegy
Furlan Marri is one of the hottest micro/independent brands out there right now. Whether it’s their vintage chronograph reference meca-quartz or sector dial mechanical watches, their quality level rivals brands many times FM’s retail price. Today’s focus is on the latter collection. After some time playing with their limited edition Black Sector ref. 2116-A and three non-limited dial variations with open casebacks revealing the LJP movement, it only made sense to design their own limited edition to celebrate their 10th anniversary. So they decided to equip the Outback Elegy with one of the best brown and sector dials I’ve seen at any price point. Price: CHF 1,500 (~US$1,750) from T+T Shop
Raymond Weil Millesime Small Second
Raymond Weil may have been a surprise winner in the 2023 GPHG. The brand’s Millesime Small Seconds had barely been mentioned before, and it seemed like there was no reason for it. With great specs and an affordable price point for a watch from a well-established Swiss brand, the Millesime should have been a fan favorite from the get-go. However, following up its successful GPHG model, Raymond Weil released a chronograph and the denim blue model seen above. Both have well-thought-out layouts and subtle vintage feel. Price: CHF 1,895 (approx. USD 2,200)
Longines Heritage Classic
Longines has long championed affordable, well-made vintage reissues, but its Heritage Classic may be one of its best attempts. It’s essentially a one-to-one reproduction of the 1934 watch (the original is on display at the Longines Museum) and is slightly larger, but not by much, at 38.5mm in a beautiful stepped case. The dial is its biggest draw, faithfully recreating the original, including the cut-out numeral six and the line that bisects the Longines logo. Price: $2,425 USD
OMEGA Specialties Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition
I’m actually glad that Omega decided to pull the plug on this release just a few days before this article was published, because it would be a shame not to feature one of their CK 859 reissues. Not only is this another example of a 9k bronze gold case (a practical material that’s halfway between non-precious metals and 18k gold), but Omega has also brought back the solid silver guilloche dial, which is an absolute winner. A circularly brushed outer track and stylized sword-shaped hands, along with the vintage typeface and Omega logo, tie the look together. Price: USD 12,000
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Automatic
The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix is not only an entry-level offering from the holy trinity of brands, but it also cements the idea that there are still underrated watches in the back catalogues of the bigger brands. Admittedly, Vacheron Constantin has not focused as much on this collection as their other offerings since its launch, but that doesn’t mean the Fiftysix isn’t an attractive option. For just a little more than the retail price of a Rolex GMT, you get a Valfleurier movement and some very beautiful decoration, making it an equally beautiful contender for an everyday watch. Price: USD 12,700
Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin
Laurent Ferrier’s story is truly inspiring, and considering he spent nearly 40 years at Patek Philippe, it’s no wonder his watches are so elegant and well-designed. The Classic Origin shape was inspired by the GPHG-winning Galette Classique Tourbillon Double Spiral and debuted for the brand’s 10th anniversary. All the defining elements are there: elongated assegai hands, tapered indexes, and curvaceous case. Flip the titanium case over to reveal the LF116.01’s contemporary flourishes, but with the brand’s usual micro-rotor replaced with a manual winding option. Price: CHF 33,000 (~US$38,200)
Rekhepi Rekhepi Chronometer Contempoline II
Rexchepi has become a household name in the independent watch world, having cut his teeth at Patek Philippe and BNB Concept before bringing that knowledge to his own brand, Akribia. While every Akribia watch is special, the level of finishing on the original Chronomètre Contemporain cemented Rexchepi’s place as one of the industry’s best finishers. The Chronomètre Contemporain II raises the bar even further, but we’re here to talk about the dial rather than the movement. Thankfully, the fired enamel surface, with its unique sector layout and purple-fired hands, is quite something, too. Price: CHF 125,000 (approx. USD 141,000)
T+T Timeless Pick: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date is one of the most recognizable sector dials in modern watches. The blue syringe hands give the dial a vintage feel and complement the blue highlights on the minute track. At 39mm, this watch has a premium feel to it, coming from a brand that was around in the golden age of sector dials in the 30s and 40s. We’ll also add that it cleverly incorporates a date wheel into the sector dial, which can be a stumbling block for some brands. This JLC is now out of production and can be found on the second-hand market for around AUD10,000.
