Jamie Weiss
Timekeeping and travel go hand in hand. With roots in our maritime history and evolution into aviation and our constant efforts to make the world a smaller place, the GMT complication plays a vital role in keeping us connected to other time zones. If you fly frequently, you know the little hassle of having to reset your watch time to the new local time zone once you land. But if you’re like me, you quickly forget what time it is in your home country. A GMT-equipped watch solves this problem and gives you the ability to track multiple time zones at once. Simply put, it’s one of the most popular and practical mechanical watch complications, and it’s fair to say that no watch collection is complete without one.
The History of the GMT Watch
Before we choose the best GMT watch on the market today, it’s worth digging a little deeper into the history of this complication. Dual time watches have been around since the 19th century, when the Industrial Revolution, colonization, and globalization made it increasingly important to be able to conveniently track the time in two different locations around the world. Early dual time watches achieved this by simply incorporating two movements that could be set to different times into one watch, a method that is still used sporadically today.
Another wristwatch complication that solves the problem of tracking time around the world is the world timer. The first world time watch was released in 1931: Patek Philippe’s ref. 515 Heure Universelle, fitted with a movement designed by Louis Cottier (Cottier’s father Emmanuel had conceived the original concept of the world timer in 1885 at the request of the Canadian Railways). A world timer is similar to a GMT, but not the same as one.
However, it was the Rolex GMT Master that first brought the term “GMT watch” (and the modern form of dual-time watch) to prominence. The origins of the GMT Master date back to 1954, when Pan Am ordered the watch from Rolex for their pilots. Because pilots frequently travel between multiple time zones, they needed a watch that could display their home time (or a reference time such as UTC/GMT) and be easily set to the new local time upon landing without disturbing the home time display. So, without further ado, here is our guide to the best GMT watches.
Seiko5 SKX Sports Style GMT
For an entry-level GMT watch, it’s hard to beat the Seiko 5 GMT. Taking design inspiration from the classic (now discontinued) SKX case shape and tossing in a bit of Rolex-esque GMT flair, there’s a lot to like about this affordable mechanical GMT. While its non-screw-down crown and 100-meter water resistance make it less suitable for diving, its beautiful diver’s watch looks, combined with a sturdy, easy-to-maintain 4R34 movement, make it a versatile everyday watch. It also comes in a wide range of colors and is available basically everywhere, from Seiko boutiques to shopping mall kiosks. Price: $475 USD
Baltic Aquascaph GMT
With a more retro look, the French-inspired Baltic Aquascarf GMT is a great, affordable option. Size-wise, the 39mm case is slender and well-balanced, framed by a blue and red sapphire bezel that is reminiscent of old Bakelite bezels. The overall look is great, right down to the luminous indices on the bezel. Combine this with a domed sapphire crystal, a large unguarded crown, and drilled lugs, and you have the perfect, classic-looking GMT. Powered by a Soprod C125 GMT movement and priced at an affordable AUD$1,750, the Baltic Aquascarf GMT is a combination not to be missed. Price: USD$1,074 (rubber strap), USD$1,139 (rice bead bracelet), available at the Time+Tide Shop
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
At Watches & Wonders 2024, the prayers of Tudor fans around the world were finally answered with the launch of the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, which adds GMT functionality to the cult-favorite diver’s watch. With a diameter of 39mm, a thickness of 12.8mm and a lug-to-lug length of approximately 47mm, this highly anticipated model is thinner than previous Tudor GMT watches (such as the Black Bay Pro) and exudes a vintage Rolex vibe with its aluminum cork-colored bezel insert and gold-plated indexes and hands. However, unlike its more expensive Rolex sibling, it is Master Chronometer certified, not COSC. The best part is that whether you choose a rubber strap or a faux-riveted Oyster bracelet, both come with Tudor’s excellent T-Fit on-the-fly micro-adjust clasp. Price: USD 4,400 (rubber), USD 4,600 (bracelet)
Nomos Tangomat GMT
NOMOS took a different approach with the GMT, striving to maintain as much of the brand’s signature minimalist aesthetic as possible. At first glance, you’d be forgiven for not realizing that the Tangomat GMT is a GMT, but look a little closer and the secret is revealed. There are two openings on either side of the dial. At 9 o’clock, there are 24 different airport codes for each time zone, which can be changed with the push of a button. At 3 o’clock, there is a 24-hour display that moves with the daily cycle. This allows for a simple yet very clever way to keep track of time wherever you are in the world. It’s similar to a worldtimer, but not at all like a worldtimer. All of these features are packed into a slim 10.9mm thick stainless steel case with a diameter of just 40mm. But because it’s NOMOS, prepare for a larger size due to the thin bezel and pillar-like lugs. Price: USD 4,920
Grand Seiko SBGE285 Evolution 9 Spring Drive GMT
With a fixed bezel like another famous Rolex GMT watch, the Explorer II, and a beautiful matte dial reminiscent of the legendary Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake, the SBGE285 Evolution 9 Spring Drive GMT is nevertheless a very unique and outstanding GMT watch. Made from lightweight yet sturdy high-strength titanium, with a beautifully curved 41mm case that molds to the wearer’s wrist, this is a watch that is truly designed with the rigors of international travel in mind. As its name suggests, inside is a 9R66 Spring Drive movement, finished in a classy Shinshu stripe, and boasts an average accuracy of ±1 second per day/±15 seconds per month. Of course, it also has the characteristic buttery smooth sweep second hand. Price: USD 8,400
Cartier Santos de Cartier Dual Time
Originally designed as an aviator’s watch, few watches are as cosmopolitan as the Santos de Cartier. We’ve seen a few GMT renditions of this classic timepiece over the years, but in 2024, a dual-time model returns to the series. This model may be the most cohesive yet. A second time zone and day/night indicator, neatly integrated at 6 o’clock, combine with an understated anthracite dial to subtly set it apart from other Santos models. The color-matched date wheel is a nice touch, as is the dial’s tasteful sunray finish. The movement that powers this Cartier is made by Sellita, which is less obvious, but that doesn’t matter here. Cartier has always placed style above all else, and this GMT watch is nothing short of stylish. Price: $9,150 USD
Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi”
In 1954, at the height of the jet age, Pan American World Airways (commonly known as Pan Am) commissioned Rolex to make a watch for its pilots on their transatlantic journey. The result was the GMT-Master, with a rotating bezel showing 24 time zones and a fourth hand that rotated once a day. Nearly 70 years later, the GMT-Master remains one of the most influential and popular watches in Rolex history, and the original “Pepsi” bezel color scheme (red and blue were actually chosen to reflect Pan Am’s corporate colors) is the most popular version of the watch. The modern GMT-Master II, unlike the original GMT-Master, is a “true” GMT watch, meaning it has an independently adjustable GMT hand and a ceramic bi-color bezel. Price: USD 10,900 (ref. 126710BLRO)
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is a unique interpretation of the GMT watch formula that is difficult to execute, but very easy to use. Ditching the usual GMT trends of bold colors and large bezels, it opts for a much more minimalist and luxurious approach, with a beautiful blue guilloche dial that is not cluttered with text or logos apart from a simple PF emblem applied under 12 o’clock. The sleek integrated bracelet is one of the best in the industry, flowing seamlessly into the case. The beautifully finished PF051 caliber is on display under a sapphire caseback, and the movement’s greatest attraction is its GMT functionality. Unlike traditional GMT mechanisms, it is activated by an engraved side pusher and a gold pusher integrated into the crown. A single press of the left button smoothly advances the GMT hand one hour, making timezone changes after a flight a joy. Upon returning, the crown pusher moves the GMT hand back under the main hour hand. Genius. Price: $30,700 USD
Patek Philippe 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
The Pilot Calatrava generated some controversy in 2015 as it was not what anyone expected Patek Philippe to release as part of the Calatrava collection. The unexpected military design and odd pusher configuration left enthusiasts confused when it was first released, but over time, the 5524R has proven to be a popular and coveted model in Patek Philippe’s lineup. The 42mm case is well-balanced at just over 10mm in height, with rounded lugs that curve gently downwards. The see-through sapphire caseback reveals the typically stunning Caliber 26‑330 SC FUS movement, which features dual time zones, a day/night indicator, Patek’s famous travel time complication, and a GMT hand that tucks neatly away when not in use. The dial itself is a varnished dark brown and features some of the largest numerals we’ve ever seen on a Patek Philippe, giving the 5524 a vintage, military-inspired look without losing any of its elegance. Price: $57,620 USD
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Collection
Few watches embody the international travel appeal of a GMT watch quite like Vacheron Constantin’s green and gold Overseas Dual Time. A more luxurious take on an already premium integrated luxury sports watch, this model pairs a sunray-brushed olive green dial (a green dial that has appeared for the first time on the Overseas) with a lustrous 18K pink gold case. Particularly user-friendly for a travel watch, this timepiece allows you to move an additional hand in hourly increments via the crown, while a pusher just below at 4:30 advances the date display. Rather than a 24-hour hand, the watch features an AM/PM indicator at 9 o’clock connected to the GMT hand, allowing you to read the second time zone at a glance. Price: USD 75,500
Greubel Forsey GMT Sports Titanium
For most brands, making a GMT is easy. Here are the steps: Take a best-selling diver’s watch, add a GMT hand and maybe a two-tone bezel, and bingo! you have a best-selling GMT. Greubel Forsey didn’t take the easy route with the GMT Sport. In fact, quite the opposite. Greubel Forsey took a bespoke approach with this hand-finished, 33-piece limited edition. The open-worked dial is adorned with a suspended tourbillon and an eye-catching globe that rotates once every 24 hours to cleverly indicate the time in certain parts of the world. With a case size of 42 mm and a thickness of 17.8 mm, the GMT Sport is a watch that’s too presentable to slip on your cuff. But the vibrant colors, details, level of finishing, and even the parabolic sapphire crystal make it unique, making it an attractive and functional GMT watch for the more discerning (and very well-heeled) traveler. Price: $480,000 (rubber), $500,000 (bracelet)
