Zach Brass
At Watches & Wonders 2023, the Grand Seiko Tentagraph made waves as Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph watch. It is equipped with the 9SC5 caliber based on the dual impulse escapement 9SA5. It is certainly a marvel, but this year’s fair also celebrates the 20th anniversary of Spring Drive, and the new Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275 Shinshu Sunrise reminds us not to overlook its complications with its surprisingly striking dial patterns and colors.
Dial
I have a childish urge to say that this dial is called “Blood Mane.” It reminds me of the texture of a lion’s characteristic mane, rendered in red tones, like a lion devouring its prey. Fortunately, and predictably, Grand Seiko has gone for a much more poetic, pleasingly natural inspiration. The color was inspired by the dawn sun reflecting off the Hodaka mountain range, located near Studio Shinshu, where Spring Drive watches are made. The dynamic orange-to-red hues captured on this dial are the result of a new patented coating process called optical multi-layer coating, which in simple terms includes a PVD process and layers of nanoscale films. Grand Seiko explains that this process also allows the lion’s mane texture to be more pronounced in warmer tones.
Looking at the dial display, we see the counters and branding arranged in an off-center yet harmonious swirl. The Grand Seiko logo is at the 11 o’clock position, the seconds hand at 9, the power reserve indicator at 7, the 12-hour counter at 4:30, the date window at 3, and the 30-minute counter at 1:30. A member of Grand Seiko’s Sports Line, the SBGC275 uses luminous paint on the central hands, applied indexes, and even the 24-hour scale below the sapphire bezel. In fact, for increased visibility, a Grand Seiko hallmark, the GMT hand and 24-hour scale use blue Lumibrite instead of the green used on the markers and hour and minute hands.
Incident
It’s not just the dial that takes inspiration from the brand’s mascot: the faceted indexes and heavily faceted, high-strength titanium case are shaped like a lion’s paw. Not to mention how this shape complicates the Zaratsu finishing process, but the payoff is… well… chef’s kiss. The alternation of distortion-free mirror polishing and rich hairline brushing really catches the eye in this big, bold shape.
That being said, the big, bold shape may be an issue for some, even if the craftsmanship is excellent. At 44.5mm in diameter and 16.8mm thick, the case is certainly massive. But at 50mm lug-to-lug, it fits on your wrist better than you might expect. The lightweight, high-strength titanium reduces the weight of this large watch, making it comfortable for everyday wear. And with a screw-down crown and 200m water resistance, this is a tough watch that you won’t have to take too seriously.
bracelet
Some Grand Seiko fans have complained about the bracelet, especially the lack of fine adjustments, but this one-piece high-strength titanium bracelet has four fine adjustment holes in the folding clasp. It also has a Seiko Marinemaster-style diver’s extension, but the extension has 16 notches that are visible rather than hidden when pulled out, so it’s not ideal from an aesthetic standpoint unless you’re wearing a wetsuit.
The links are an H-style with alternating faceted bars, each secured with a pin and collar system, and are mostly hairline brushed with mirror-polished accents, including the beveled shoulders. They fit securely on the wrist, with a pre-drilled clasp and a diver’s extension, which should allay any concerns you may have about the fit of a Grand Seiko bracelet.
motion
Powering it all is Studio Shinshu’s 72-hour automatic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT movement, commonly known as the 9R96, a derivative of the standard 9R86 that’s specially calibrated to run within half a second per day according to Grand Seiko standards. This highly complex vertical clutch column-wheel chronograph GMT is made up of over 400 parts and may be the most accurate Spring Drive chronograph movement in the world.
Verdict
Some may be intimidated by the size of the SBGC275, but this is a lion-inspired watch, not a lion cub-inspired watch. Keep in mind that while this watch is intended to be bold in proportion, it is still compact for its size at 50mm lug-to-lug. Also keep in mind that this movement is typically housed in a case that is 52.5mm lug-to-lug. So, as the caliber pops out of the lion case, you get the opportunity to wear a Spring Drive Chronograph GMT that, while bulky, is much less likely to stick out from your wrist.
Because this movement is often used in watches with larger diameters and sizes, it doesn’t always get the recognition it deserves for the unparalleled precision and vast complications it offers. Housed in a lion case and featuring an eye-catching new red dial, this is the titanium daily watch for those with lion-like arms. Without getting too poetic, if you’re okay with a more robust watch and a 50mm lug-to-lug diameter, the Grand Seiko SBGC275 is hard to beat, both technically and aesthetically.
Grand Seiko SBGC275 Pricing and Availability
The Grand Seiko SBGC275 is a limited edition of 700 pieces, scheduled to ship in August 2024. Price: USD 13,400, AU$ 20,000
Brand Grand Seiko Model Sports Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition Reference SBGC275 Case Size 44.5mm (D) x 16.8mm (T) x 50mm (LTL) Case Material High-strength titanium Water Resistance 200 metres, screw-down crown Crystal Sapphire front and back Dial Red, lion’s mane pattern Strap High-strength titanium bracelet, folding clasp Movement 9R96, in-house, automatic, Spring Drive Power Reserve 72 hours Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph, GMT, power reserve Availability Limited to 700 pieces Price US$13,400, A$20,000
