Borna Bosniaks
Beyond its association with the unique Freak Concept, Ulysse Nardin also has a close connection with the sea. Whether we’re talking about its early adventures in making marine chronometers or its current models, which are often inspired by diver’s watches and marine chronometers, the anchor logo is a good hint at the brand’s source of inspiration. With that in mind, it’s no surprise that the dial of the new Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll is cut from chrysocolla, a natural mineral with a hue similar to turquoise. This is the most obvious novelty, but the Diver Atoll is a strange combination of flashiness and sporty specs, so let’s go into more detail.
Dial
Perhaps your eye is immediately drawn to the mottled texture of navy, emerald and brown that adorns the dial. It instantly evokes an aerial photograph of some remote, deserted tropical location. Like the remote atoll, the name must be coincidental. As with the stone dial, each slice of chrysocolla that will be set into all 100 Diver Atolls will be unique.
Aside from the vibrant mineral texture, there’s a lot going on with the Diver Atoll’s dial. The hands are deceptively simple fence posts, but the lume plots on the hour and minute hands are bisected by a silver band. The Ulysse Nardin logo is divided by a large anchor, there’s a circular date window cut out at six o’clock, and hash marks extend from the diamond hour markers. Honestly, I would have liked some of the dial elements to be pared back a bit to allow the dial material to shine unobstructed.
Incident
Ulysse Nardin didn’t stop at the dial, but instead upped the ante with a diamond-set bezel, making the Diver’s Atoll more of a sporty timepiece than a full-fledged diving watch. If you want to use a bezel, the brand didn’t go all the way with it, leaving blue markers to indicate the directions and interrupting the diamond setting at five-minute intervals. While the majority of the steel case has a high-polished finish, the bezel’s thin, knobby outer ring, designed for gripping, has a circular brushed finish.
On the wrist, the Diver Atoll follows in the footsteps of other small Ulysse Nardin diver models, measuring 39mm in diameter and 11mm in height. The diameter alone will satisfy most watch fans, but its thickness (or thinness) is especially impressive when you consider its automatic movement and water resistance to 300 meters.
strap
In keeping with the Diver Atoll’s more laid-back spirit, Ulysse Nardin offers straps in white rubber or pearl white alligator leather. For those who want to really test the Diver Atoll’s underwater capabilities, the white rubber is undoubtedly the strap of choice, while the vintage-stitched alligator is ideal for everyday wear.
motion
The final element symbolizing the brand’s nautical beginnings is the engraved compass rose on the steel caseback, meaning you won’t be able to see the UN-816 movement that powers the Diver Atoll. But don’t worry; if you’ve seen the Sellita SW300 (or ETA 2892-A2) before, you’ll be familiar with the UN-816. It’s the basis for Ulysse Nardin’s refinements, including the addition of a silicon escapement. Beating at 4Hz, this automatic movement boasts a 42-hour power reserve. It’s a great performer, but considering the price, one might wonder if Ulysse Nardin could have gone with a premium in-house movement.
Verdict
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll’s unique dial and flashy bezel don’t offer much in the way of subtlety. While the brand is trying to maintain some practicality with the latter, the style and overall legibility of the watch make it less suitable for diving. Overall, if you’re looking for a serious dive watch from Ulysse Nardin, you’re better off with the Diver Net or Skeleton. However, if you’re looking for a watch that’ll feel right at home in a swanky bar on the French Riviera, the Diver Atoll seems much more suited to that playground.
Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll Pricing and Availability
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll is available now as a limited edition of 100 pieces. Price: US$15,800
Brand Ulysse Nardin Model Diver Atoll Reference 8163-182B1LE-9A-ATOLL/3A
8163-182B1LE-9A-ATOLL/1A Case Size 39mm (D) x 11mm (T) Case Material Stainless steel, diamond-set bezel Water Resistance 300 meters Crystal Sapphire front Dial Blue chrysocolla, diamond hour markers Strap White rubber or white alligator leather strap Movement UN-816, Sellita SW300 base, automatic, silicone escapement Power Reserve 42 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date Availability Limited to 100 pieces Price US$15,800
