Time + Tide
Few watches are more coveted than limited edition watches issued to elite military and security forces, and when Tudor worked with France’s highest level security agencies, the results were pure horological magic. In two separate collaborations, Tudor created ultra-rare editions of the iconic Black Bay 58, available only to members of the French domestic intelligence agency (DGSI) and the Commando de Sécurités (COS), demonstrating that the brand isn’t just partnering with sports teams and athletes.
Both models feature subtle, yet thoughtful details that are recognizable to anyone in the know. While Tudor has never publicly released details about these models to date, Time+Tide had the unique opportunity to get their hands on these hard-to-find watches and uncover the details. We were surprised when the opportunity to feature these models arose, but are incredibly grateful to have been able to do so. While Tudor has officially partnered with the military in the past, these secret collaborations are all the more fascinating.
An honorable tribute to France’s elite troops
By producing limited edition Tudor watches for DGSI and COS, Tudor continues its tradition of creating exclusive timepieces for select military and security forces. These watches are a fitting tribute to the dedication and professionalism of the men and women who serve in these elite organizations. The extreme rarity and value of these watches is further enhanced by the secrecy of the agencies they represent. As both DGSI and COS operate primarily in secret, with much of their activity classified and the identities of their personnel protected, these watches offer a rare glimpse into the world of high-risk national security operations.
For the select few who own these watches, they represent a lifetime of achievement and serve as a constant reminder of their dedication to national security and their organization’s elite status. Subtle customizations such as an agency crest, national colors, or personal engravings create highly meaningful timepieces that are unobtrusive for everyday wear.
Tudor Black Bay 58 DGSI
France’s main domestic intelligence agency, the DGSI (Direction Générale de la Sécurité Intérieure), was established in 1944 and is the French equivalent of the FBI in the United States. Under the Ministry of the Interior, the agency focuses on counter-terrorism, economic security, cyber defense, and combating espionage and foreign interference. As you can imagine, this summer will be very busy with the Olympics. With around 5,000 agents across the country, the DGSI has both analytical and operational capabilities. While some of the DGSI’s activities are public, the majority remain classified due to their sensitive nature. Only those who carry out these missions can fully understand their impact.
Made in 2020 and delivered in 2021, the Tudor Black Bay 58 DGSI is a masterpiece of subtlety and exclusivity. The watch was never available for public sale and was only available to DGSI staff. At first glance, the BB58 DGSI appears nearly indistinguishable from the regular production model. However, a closer look reveals several distinguishing features.
The dial features “CHRONOMETRE OFFIVIELLEMENT CERTIFIE” in full French, and the depth indication is only “200m” in the metric system, the only measurement system used in France, not imperial. The case back is engraved with the DGSI emblem and the year of manufacture. There is also the option of a personalized 15-character inscription of the recipient’s choice below the emblem.
The watch is powered by the COSC-certified Manufacture MT5602 caliber and is presented on a riveted steel bracelet. Owners can optionally choose an additional NATO strap bearing the French tricolor, which incurs an additional fee, making it even more rare. The exact production number is unknown, but it is estimated that fewer than 100 were made. As such, the BB58 DGSI is extremely rare even within the select DGSI community, with fewer than 1 in 50 agents owning this precious timepiece.
Tudor Black Bay 58 COS
Founded on June 24, 1992, the Commandement des Opérations Spéciales (COS) is the French Joint Staff, responsible for the special forces of the French Army, Navy, Air Force and Space Forces. Operating under the orders of the Chief of Defense Staff and under the direct authority of the President of the French Republic, the COS acts as the French equivalent of USSOCOM or UKSF. Throughout its 30-year history, the COS has led more than 1,000 special operations. The faces and names of the outstanding soldiers who carry out these operations are unknown, as their work is shrouded in secrecy. Adaptability, tenacity, determination and team spirit are key qualities for someone who can step in at any time, anywhere in the world, and carry out his mission relentlessly.
To celebrate COS’s 30th anniversary in 2022, Tudor has partnered with the force to create a special edition of the Black Bay 58. Like its DGSI counterpart, this limited edition watch was never sold to the public.
At first glance, the watch may look like a standard Black Bay 58. However, a closer look reveals the iconic blue dial with three lines of text printed in blue, white and red – the colours of the French flag – making it truly unique and instantly recognisable to those in the know.
The back of the 39mm steel case features the unit’s distinctive round crossbow logo, the anniversary date “1922-2022,” and the owner’s military three-pointed star and commando insignia (blacked out at the owner’s discretion). The rest of the watch is identical to a standard BB58.
lastly
In the world of watches, the Tudor Black Bay 58 DGSI and COS editions rank among the most exclusive and desirable timepieces available. While these watches may not be available to the public, their very existence adds a fascinating chapter to Tudor’s history and highlights the brand’s connection to the world of elite security forces. For watch enthusiasts and collectors, discovering such watches is akin to discovering a hidden treasure. These watches are a reminder that in the world of fine watchmaking, there are still secrets to discover and stories to tell: stories of precision, dedication and the unsung heroes who work tirelessly to protect the security of the nation.
