Buffy Acacia
Squale is celebrating its 65th anniversary this year, and if you don’t know the name, you’re missing out. Squale was famous for supplying watch cases to blue-chip companies like Blancpain, TAG Heuer, and Doxa in the 1960s and 70s. Their cases were known for being incredibly sturdy and waterproof to 1,000 meters. At the time, few diver’s watches offered such features.The Swiss brand’s most popular model, the 1521, is a modern rendition of a 500-metre water-resistant watch from the 1970s, while the Squale 1521 Marina Militaire symbolises the brand’s 40-year partnership with the Italian Navy.
Incident
The 1521, sometimes called the “von Buren” case after designer and Squale founder Charles von Buren, has remained largely unchanged since its debut. It began as a way to slim down the chunky case of the 1,000-meter Squale Master, but has since evolved into much more. While it shares basic similarities with many skin divers from the ’60s, the gently sloping, tightly cut lugs give it a more sleek look. Comes in a sturdy asymmetrical caseThe blocky shape on the right side serves to protect the recessed crown at 4 o’clock, a tactic in itself that provides both durability and comfort in the hand.
New Limited Edition Squale 1521 Marina Militare It maintains its legendary water resistance to 500 metres without the need for a helium escape valve.sealed with a signed screw-down crown and caseback. The 120-click unidirectional bezel is fairly tall with a coin edge that is easy to grip. The aluminum insert is easy to read for the first 15 minutes with its orange section. It’s a full-sized watch at 42mm in diameter, but with a lug-to-lug length of 48mm and a thickness of 12.5mm, it’s also very easy to wear on slightly smaller wrists. The brushed finish is fairly muted overall, but the polished areas around the bezel and the chamfered edges add a touch of sophistication.
Dial
Dials have come a long way since the 70s, and this latest model shows it. The first batch of Squale 1521s supplied to Marina Militaire featured printed hour markers on a matte black dial, but now there is a greater focus on the details. The applied indexes have pockets of Superluminova, making them highly visible at night and giving them a sense of depth. The black dial has a silky-soft sunburst brushing that creates a subtle play of light across the surface. Finally, the Marina Militaire logo looks very modern with a tall sans serif font. The Squale logo is classic, and if you look closely at the crown/flipper motif on the left, you can read the word “VON” as an ode to the founder.
While the 1521 lacks some of the luminous features required to meet ISO diver watch standards, there’s no question about its legibility underwater. The baton hands are clearly identifiable thanks to the bright orange minute hand luminescence that corresponds to the orange section of the bezel. Orange markers are also used to divide the long minute markers into five, making them easier to distinguish and giving them a clean look. The date display at 3 o’clock has a clean white border and white background that contrasts perfectly with the black dial.
motion
Squale has maintained a high position Among diver’s watch enthusiastsSquale has never been a luxury brand. As long as the quality is high and the watch is Swiss made, Squale strives to keep the price affordable and not inflated. It is no surprise to see the off-the-shelf Sellita SW200-1 used, as it is a very plentiful movement with a very good reputation for reliability and precision. This 1521 Marina Militaire specifically uses the Elabore grade, which can be adjusted in three positions to achieve an accuracy of ±7 to ±20 seconds per day. It is also nice that Squale is completely open about using a Sellita movement on their website and does not try to pass it off as in-house. The 4Hz beat rate keeps the second hand moving smoothly, and the automatic’s 38-hour power reserve is more than enough for daily wear.
strap
Paired with the limited edition Squale 1521 Marina Militaire is a somewhat puzzling strap described as carbon-weave microfiber. It is lined in calf leather and stitched with bright orange thread to match the orange accents on the dial. If you plan on taking it swimming or diving regularly, you’ll likely use the included chevron-patterned rubber strap, which is also included in the watch’s flight case. If you want to try a third-party strap such as a NATO, the 20mm lug width makes it very easy to do so. A minimal color dive watch like this is always a strap monster.
Verdict
Given Squale’s long history as a brand and with the Italian Navy, this limited edition of 500 pieces celebrating the pair will no doubt find an instant following. The balance between streamlined specifications and classy style is near perfect, as is the balance between wrist presence and wearability. The Marina Militaire logo is unobtrusive, so there are no odd color combinations or obnoxious logos to distract you. I admit to being biased against leather straps on dive watches.However, the fact that Squale also offers it on a rubber strap solves that issue. All this, plus the price, makes this a great choice for anyone looking for a vintage-inspired dive watch with a modern finish.
Pricing and availability for Squale 1521 Marina Militaire
The Squale 1521 Marina Militare is limited to 500 pieces. Available now on Squale’s websitePrice: $1,430
Brand Squale Model 1521 Marina Militaire Reference 1521MARINA.MIBK Case Size 42mm (D) x 12.5mm (T) x 48mm (LTL) Case Material Stainless Steel Water Resistance 500 meters Crystal Sapphire Dial Black sunburst Strap Woven microfiber and rubber strap Movement Sellita SW200-1 Power Reserve 38 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date Availability Limited to 500 pieces Price US$1,430
