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Unlike many new releases that are inspired by past models or point the brand in a new direction, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon in titanium has a very simple purpose. It is Vacheron Constantin’s sportiest model, and titanium makes perfect sense, as does the tourbillon complication of Haute Horlogerie, a member of the holy trinity. So, it’s a no-brainer, but what inspired us to choose this watch for the cover of the latest NOW Watch Buying Guide magazine? The answer is in the question: the Overseas Tourbillon Titanium is more than the sum of its parts. Each part is better than the other. Let’s take a closer look.
Dial
A good place to start is with the dial. The lacquered blue is a standout feature of the Overseas line, hailed by many as the best in the industry. I agree, and although Vacheron Constantin is introducing green to the Overseas collection this year, I don’t think it’s going to dethrone the champion anytime soon. Taking full advantage of the matte finish and layers of translucent lacquer to give it depth, this blue has a greater luminosity than many enamel dials I’ve seen. My favorite feature is the way the colors interact as they reach the edges, most evident here around the tourbillon opening. The blue gradually darkens, with razor-thin white lines separating and subtly highlighting additional dial elements.
Honestly, the Maltese cross-shaped tourbillon doesn’t need any more highlights: Suspended on a hand-polished bridge, it takes up most of the lower part of the dial and also functions as a small seconds indicator thanks to a single blued screw attached to one of the arms of the cross.
Incident
The dial is truly striking, but given the Overseas’s pedigree, you probably already knew that it would be that way. What surprised me was how well finished the case was. It is grade 5 titanium. I can name a lot of titanium watches that leave something to be desired in terms of finish, given brands’ tendency to go all brushed and be done with it. The Overseas Tourbillon Titanium is about as far from that point as you can imagine, and I can confidently say it is the best-finished titanium watch I’ve ever seen in person.
The bezel is polished to a mirror finish and has a frosted edge that transitions into the vertical brushing of the main case, which tapers off into sharp bevels on the similarly reflective case sides towards the caseback, providing some relief on the wrist.
Although the caseback and crown are both screw-down, the Overseas Tourbillon Titanium is only water resistant to 50 meters, which is a debatable point for a standard time-only Overseas model, but is acceptable given that it is a premium complication.
If you’re familiar with the third-generation Overseas, you’ll know that the watch tends to wear flatter, making it ideal for medium to large wrists with a linear profile. The Overseas Tourbillon Titanium takes it up a notch with an increased diameter of 42.5mm, while remaining impressively slim at just 10.39mm. It certainly wears large, and while it feels large, especially on my rounded 17.5cm/6.8″ wrist, it’s not uncomfortable thanks to the inverted end links that point downwards immediately.
Bracelets and straps
Another feature of the Overseas that really sets it apart from other brands is that it’s available with three different strap options right from the get-go. We expect most potential buyers will choose to stick with the titanium bracelet (there’s no reason not to), but the included blue waffle pattern rubber strap and stitched calfskin strap options are equally valid and can be easily interchanged thanks to quick-swap tabs on the back.
The strap has a single folding clasp shaped like the brand’s logo, and the logo-inspired bracelet is finished off with a butterfly clasp. This is another thing that would normally bring a sports watch down due to the lack of adjustment, but the Overseas’ unique shape of the bracelet links makes it forgivable. That being said, it would be a game-changer to see Vacheron implement a hidden, built-in Maltese cross clasp that can be adjusted without the use of tools, and I’m confident the brand can pull it off.
motion
We briefly mentioned the exposed tourbillon when talking about the dial, but it’s not until you turn the watch over that you can fully experience all the fun it has to offer. The Overseas Tourbillon Titanium is powered by Vacheron Constantin’s in-house caliber 2160, a thin 5.65mm automatic movement that has been around for a long time. It’s peppered with the usual finishing touches, including Geneva stripes, circular graining on the baseplate, polished and countersunk screws and jewels. There are a few sharply chamfered outer corners, but the chamfers are generally very thin and there are no visible inner angles.
The highlight of the finish is undoubtedly the hand-polished tourbillon bridge, which is visible from the dial, but Vacheron Constantin has ensured that the other components are not obscured by cumbersome rotors and the like, instead incorporating an oscillating weight around the perimeter of the movement, which is crafted from 22K gold. Spec-wise, the 2160 beats at a slow 2.5Hz, is antimagnetic, and has an 80-hour power reserve.
Verdict
In my opinion, watches like this Overseas Tourbillon Titanium are what Vacheron Constantin is today. Not only is it a popular model that is on top of current trends, it also showcases the brand’s know-how in the best way. Due to its high price and low production numbers, it was never meant to be Vacheron Constantin’s main source of revenue, and I don’t think it was ever intended for the brand to be that way. Rather, it is meant to be a dream object to be plastered on bedroom walls and magazine covers, just like a flagship supercar. So we did.
Pricing and Availability for the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon titanium model is now available and is featured on the cover of NOW Watch Buying Guide Issue 9. Price: $129,000 USD
Brand Vacheron Constantin Model Overseas Tourbillon Reference 6000V/210T-H032 Case Size 42.5mm (D) x 10.39mm (T) Case Material Grade 5 Titanium Water Resistance 50 meters Crystal Sapphire front and back Dial Translucent blue lacquer Lug Width Integrated Strap Grade 5 titanium bracelet with butterfly clasp
Blue rubber and leather strap Movement Caliber 2160, in-house, automatic, Geneva Seal Power reserve 80 hours Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds Availability Current price US$129,000
