Minase is one of those special Japanese brands that boasts straightforward design and great craftsmanship. These characteristics made me fall in love with Minase’s Divido series. From the moment I laid eyes on the stunning design of the Divido, I knew that Minase was up to something special. That feeling was even stronger when I had the chance to check out the watches up close and see for myself how design and great craftsmanship come together. In the summer of 2023, the brand added its latest model to its lineup. With Urga, Minase has unveiled another fascinating design. Can it wow me as much as the Divido? Now is the time to find out.
When the Minase Urga series debuted in July 2023, I wasn’t sure what to make of it. The design felt like a step back 20 years, and I wasn’t sure if it was a step forward for the brand. But when you put this watch next to other Minase models, the puzzle pieces start to fall into place. The Urga is unmistakably Minase. There’s a visual connection to the brand’s beautiful M-3 models. We’ve had the opportunity to collaborate with the Japanese brand on this watch twice, first with the M-3 “Veri Peri” in 2022, and then last year with the M-3 “Nori.” These were two fantastic models with the classic case shape and stunning dials that fans loved.
Minase lacquerware reflects beauty and elegance
The Urga looks like an early 2000s evolution of the 1970s-inspired, tonneau-cased M-3. So how does the Urga fit in? Let’s start with the name. “Urga” is a combination of the Japanese words “Urukushii” (beautiful) and “Ya” (also read as “ga”), which mean “beautiful” and “elegance” respectively. As Henry explained in his introductory article for the series, these meanings should be reflected in the design.
Urga is the brainchild of renowned Japanese designer Hirokuni Yamamoto, who has created a design worthy of the Minase brand, one that is worth savoring in its entirety and that has some very distinctive features.
This time, the standout elements are the four prominent clamps on the case. As Henry explains in the introduction: The Uruga’s construction sandwiches the crystal between the bezel and midcase, with four clasps securing everything in place. The case was designed with the brand’s “MORE (MINASE Original Reconstruction Equation)” principles in mind.
The idea behind this patented approach comes from traditional Japanese 3D puzzles: the central idea is that Minase’s watchmakers can disassemble all the parts of the case and replace them individually if necessary.
A dial inspired by the nature of Urga
The Uruga has a 42mm stainless steel case that is 10.2mm thick, 48mm from lug to lug, and is water resistant to 50m. Like most Minase watches, it combines deeply brushed and Zaratsu polished areas. The latter technique, also known as Zaratsu mirror polishing, is one of Minase’s distinguishing features. This beautifully accentuates the visual detail of the Uruga case.
And there’s quite a bit going on. As mentioned before, the case is reminiscent of early 2000s designs, which isn’t necessarily a good thing. But the more time I spent with Uruga, the more I grew to love it and began to understand what makes it so special.
One special element is the dial. We received both the blue and green dial versions for review, both of which feature a pattern of intersecting lines. According to the brand, the design was inspired by the waves of the Minase River in Japan. Both dials are captivating up close, adding some nice detail to the simple layout. The polished, faceted, and applied hour markers contrast beautifully with the dial, and the date window at 3 o’clock has a polished frame that matches the indexes and sharp hands.
The indexes are located among the white minute track around the perimeter of the dial. This results in a dial that impresses with its intricate details rather than its overall design. The combination of finishes used on the hands, the pattern on the dial, and the font used on the date disc are nice little details that give the dial character. All this combined with the fantastic case design means there’s a lot to admire when you have the Uruga on your wrist.
A beautifully finished caliber
You’re probably well aware that Minase primarily uses ETA-based calibers in their watches. In the Urga, the brand uses a premium ETA 2892-A2 movement, hand-finished by Minase’s watchmakers. It features polished bevels, decorated mainplates and bridges, hand-grained circular graining, blued screws, and a customized rotor. The movement is visible through a display case back, and is a step up from the regular ETA 2892-A2.
Finally, we received the green version on a leather strap and the blue model on a bracelet, and this bracelet is something special, because I really enjoyed wearing the Divido on a bracelet too, so I didn’t expect anything else.
This bracelet has sizing screws on the back of the links so they are not visible when the watch is on. It is a beautifully made bracelet that is flexible yet strong. It is truly an incredible feat of engineering and I love it.
Wearing Minase Uruga
How does all this translate on the wrist? On the wrist, the Uruga immediately feels pleasantly slim. However, what is immediately noticeable is that the 42mm wide watch is rather large. I would have been perfectly happy with a smaller 39-40mm size, which would have made the perfect impact. As it stands, many will shy away from the watch as it may not suit those with smaller wrist sizes.
The 42mm watch looks good on me, but this type of watch doesn’t need to be that big, and I wonder why Minase decided to make a 42mm version. The Uruga fits my wrist perfectly at 42mm, but I don’t like it being that big.
In particular, the version with the green dial and brown leather strap seems too large. On the bracelet, the size doesn’t affect the impact of the case as much; the stainless steel is more prominent, which balances the look. Plus, of the two versions we tried, we definitely prefer the blue dial model on the bracelet. The 2000s-inspired design has a very technical feel, which, combined with the incredibly well-made bracelet, makes it that much better.
lastly
Both watches impress with their incredible level of detail. The watches really come alive on the wrist, whether it’s the case and bracelet finish or the special dial. It’s been a while since I’ve worn a Minase, and while this Urga may not be for me, I was quickly reminded why Minase is such a great brand. The design and finish are what make Minase watches so special. This time, I was especially impressed with the dial, the ingenious case construction, and the stunning bracelet.
The Minase Urga may not be on my future wish list, but I’m sure many buyers will have it on theirs. The 42mm model retails for €4,850 on a leather strap and €6,150 on a bracelet. Both are a pretty penny, of course. But what you get in return is something unique in design, construction, and finish. At this price point, it’s hard to match the quality that Minase offers.
Ultimately, Minase is a brand that makes great watches that are not for everyone, and I love that about them. The Urga has all the typical Minase characteristics that make it a great fit for any collection. This watch reminded me of how little attention I’ve been paying to a brand that I love dearly and that will undoubtedly make many people happy with the Urga.
For more information, please visit the Minase official website. Let us know what you think about Minase Uruga in the comments section.
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