Jamie Weiss
Why is Field Watches a Field Watch? Essentially, it’s a simple, sturdy watch with military roots (see “Dirty Dozen” or ATP watches) and has a nonsense look that pairs up almost anything. A typical field watch has a small round stainless steel case with black dials with Arabic numbers and very visible hands (ideally bright). These days, the definition of field watches is much broader than before. Seiko Alpinist, Sinn 556, and even Rolex Explorer, can all be considered field watches, even without adhering to its strict original formula. Below are some of our choices from this versatile category.
Boldr Venture Sandstorm
The Boldr is an insider’s choice among micro-brand enthusiasts, featuring bold designs, excellent build quality and winning ceremonies with the sought-after specifications. The Venture Field Watch is one of the most beloved models. It cuts the modernist profile when compared to a more traditional look field watch with angular lines and a hooded lug appearance. It offers a clean dial with a durable and lightweight 38mm titanium case, 200m water resistant, wide hands, sharp sans serif Arabic numerals, no date windows, and heartfelt application of Japanese superrooms. The BoldR venture, powered by the Micro Brand’s favorite Seiko NH35A automatic, is available in four colors, including this Sandstorm variant. A desert tan nylon fabric strap with titanium hardware is also standard equipment. Price: USD 449, available from Time+Tide Shop
Unimatic Modello Due U2 Classic – UC2
The Italian brand of hype is famous for its outstanding minimalist interpretation of the classic tool watch ratios. However, the imaginative modelo applies aesthetics to the concept of field watches and is the winner. The 38.5mm case features a brushed finish, a flat drill lug and a skilled grip-like screw-down crown, providing 300 meters of water resistance. The matte black dial allows you to really pop the wide, buzzing handset and oversized markers, making the entire exercise extremely easy to read. The thick, double sapphire crystal is a great vintage touch, and everything becomes ham thanks to the venerable Seiko NH35A movement engraved inside. Price: €425 (~US$470)
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze
If I were to draw a definitive field watch picture, it would probably look a lot like the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. With a 38mm round case, bold dial markings, antique rooms and hand-wound movement, it is a callback to the historical appearance of the field watch. The regular steel version of this watch is undoubtedly the most ubiquitous field watch on the market, but this bronze variant is a Field-L, with brown leather straps with an antique look. The daily ritual of hand washing the movement of your watch H-50 cannot be overstated. And every time you do it adds to the warm, soft, shining patina that will only become you and yours. Price: 895 USD, available from Time+Tide Shop
Studio UnderD0G 02 Series Field
Field watches are intended to be the flashiest of all watches. If you are a soldier on the field, the last thing you want is an eye-catching clock and give your enemy your position. But let’s be real. How many of us actually wear field watches? You may be enjoying your field watch, but that’s exactly what the Fields in Studio UnderD0G offer. The 02 series field design features a unique take on sandwich dials. Here, the base layer is topped with a transparent 1mm thick sapphire crystal dial, attached via two prominent screws, and printed with numbers and fine tracks. Three of the four models in the collection (such as the pink LEM0NADE above) feature a complete Lume dial. This isn’t too stealthy, but the printed numbers create an attractive 3D effect as mentioned above. Price: USD 900, available from Time+Tide Shop
Zodiac Olympus
A somewhat quirky take on field watches, Zodiac Olympos is a highly competent field watch from a brand well known for its diving watches. Inspired by a watch made for the Royal Navy in the late 1960s, this “bullhead” case and a 2 o’clock-mounted crown give it a distinctive look, just like the attractive grey grain dial . It is water resistant to 200 meters, features an STP-11 movement, and features a hacking seconds and a 44-hour power reserve. Price: USD 995, available from Time+Tide Shop
Serica ref. 6190 Field Chronometer California
Serica Ref. I thought the 6190 field chronometer for this purchase guide was the most idiosyncratic, so I thought I’d go to the California dial variant. As the name suggests, this vintage style watch has a COSC certified Sophodod M100 movement for precise timing in the field and is attached to a comfortable, retro bon clip style bracelet. You can also use the crown at either the normal 3 o’clock position or at 9 o’clock if it’s a Southpaw. Price: USD 1,105, available from Time+Tide Shop
Tudor Ranger
Now we go up a little in price, but we remain in a league that is achievable. Released in July 2022 to mark the 70th anniversary of the UK’s North Greenland expedition, the Modern Ranger is a welcome update from the 2014 discontinued 41mm model. Value play. Like the Vintage Ranger (and the original Rolex Explorer that provided much of the DNA), it is a great daily driver, with a completely satin brush finish and a water resistant of 100 meters. And if you crave a real tool watch experience more than today’s gorgeous explorers, it’s easy. Price: US $3,150 (leather or Yacure strap), US $3,475 (steel bracelet)
IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Mark XX
Now we reach the top of the field watch. In many ways, the IWC Mark XX is the platonic ideal of a field watch (even though IWC itself describes it as a pilot’s watch). It’s not exactly cheap, but it features IWC’s normally peerless build quality and a manufacturing caliber 32111 movement that boasts a class-leading 120-hour power reserve. It’s extremely flexible with freegar style hands and small, subtle date windows, and comes in a variety of dial colors. There is also a Mercedes F1 model with a titanium-covered turquoise accent. Also, if you’re in the mood to change things from the contrasting brown calf strap, IWC keeps it simple with the Toolless Easx-Change system. Price: USD 5,250 (Leather Strap), USD 6,150 (Steel Bracelet)
