Borna Bosniak
Old money style is characterized by a focus on classic, timeless elegance, achieved with subtle sophistication and an effortless feel. The world of luxury watches is often interpreted as vulgar, and for some designs, that’s understandable. Even though Richard Mille is technologically advanced, it’s rare to find a Richard Mille on the wrist of someone wearing Cucinelli. That’s the whole idea behind this “quiet luxury” trend that has come and gone over the past year. So, what is it about this watch that casually fits on the wrists of families relaxing in the peaceful port towns of the Côte d’Azur and the Amalfi Coast? The general idea is that these are not very noticeable, but the following list will point you in the right direction.
cartier tank mast
Like most of the watches on this list, the Cartier Tank has a rich history. This is a watch based on Louis Cartier’s original 1917 creation, which essentially represents the foundation of the brand’s wristwatch tradition and has become an icon of horology. Tanks have been worn by some of the most legendary figures in history, but there’s nothing to shout about. Its small size allows it to slip quietly under the cuff without attracting attention. Yes, there’s also a solid gold version that might be more suited to the “stealth wealth” theme, but there’s nothing wrong with a steel quartz version either. It’s a timeless classic on the wrist of anyone who doesn’t want their luxury watch to draw unnecessary attention, and it’s a bit of a cheat (or cheap) code for on-trend quiet luxury. Price: $3,450
Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW301, SBGW305
Grand Seiko is often associated with bright, detailed dials inspired by natural elements, so the brand’s simple models are often overlooked. While this is unfortunate, it is consistent with the modest theme of this article and makes SBGW301 and SBGW305 ideal choices. With pure white or subtle cream-colored dials, this duo from the Elegance collection features a hand-wound movement and Grand Seiko’s stunning case and dial appliqué finishes. Price: $4,900 (SBGW301), $5,700 (SBGW305)
nomos lambda 39
Nomos may be a left-field player in this category, but the stripped-down, Bauhaus approach of its Lambda collection seems like a perfect fit. The case is made of 39mm solid gold, and the minimalist dial also incorporates a complication, thanks to the beautifully decorated DUW 1001 movement, which features a hand-carved balance and a sunray-striped quarter wheel, as often used by Germans. Features screw-in gold chatons dotted across 3 plates. Watchmaker. Price: $17,000
Rolex Perpetual 1908
In 2023, Rolex retires Cellini and introduces its latest interpretation of the classic dress watch, the Perpetual 1908. The name refers to the brand’s founding year and heralds a new era in Rolex’s timeline, which aims to restore its appeal to a more horologically mature audience. audience. Love it or hate it, Rolex doesn’t tend to fall into the subtle category, whether it’s because of its highly polished 904L steel surfaces or ceramic bezels, but the Perpetual 1908 does away with such acts. . Distinctive features such as the fluted bezel and Mercedes hands are subtly incorporated, making this black dial and white gold combination particularly stealthy. Price: $23,300
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual winding 39mm
What kind of watch would an emperor or ruler wear? Coincidentally, it would be a Vacheron Constantin. Founded in Geneva in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has long been associated with the wear of aristocrats and royalty, including Louis XIV, the Maharaja of Patiala, and even Queen Elizabeth II. Vacheron Constantin’s Holy Trinity status has been determined by the brand’s fine finishes, unique complications, and longevity, but you might not immediately notice it when you look at models like the 20th Anniversary Patrimony. Probably not. The case is white gold for understatement and the dial is delicately laid out, but the quality and finish shows an attention to detail and everything is made to perfection. Price: $25,200
Patek Philippe Inline Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P
There is no equivalent to the perpetual calendar complication in a wristwatch, and some consider it the pinnacle of modern watchmaking. Patek Philippe, one of the pioneers in introducing complications into wristwatches, felt this was problematic. Instead of hard-to-read subdials, Patek created the Ref. 5236, a watch touted by Patek experts as one of the brand’s best releases. This is an inline perpetual calendar with day, date and month all complete and easy to read. With a platinum case and a blue dial with brushed scales, the 5236 has all the key elements you’d expect from a Patek grand complication piece, but with a shape that almost erases them. It is packaged with. The date window, moon phase display, day/night and leap year indicators have all been carefully positioned for maximum visibility, while completely changing the look you would expect from a perpetual calendar. Price: $141,400
Time + Tide Timeless Recommendations: Philippe Dufour Grande and Petit Sonnerie
At first glance, the Philippe Dufour Grand et Petit Sonnerie is just a gold watch. It could just be a vintage piece with a nice enamel dial, simple proportions, and nothing obvious that would stand out to most people. But, of course, this is the Philippe Dufour Grand et Petit Sonnerie, the first wristwatch in history to feature this complication, crafted to absolute perfection by one of the greatest watchmakers of all time. Ta. The aforementioned Roman numeral dial is Grand Feu enamel, the most classic execution of this dial-making technique, but the real show begins when you open the Hunter’s caseback. If we’re talking about an ultra-luxury watch that doesn’t scream that, what better example than this? I don’t think so. Price: $5,000,000+ at auction
