tom austin
The most elegant and sophisticated watches are likely to display Roman numerals on the dial to ensure cultural sophistication. This style has been used in early clocks dating back to the 14th century, such as the clock that hangs in Wells Cathedral. It may come as a surprise, but most Roman numeral dials technically have a typo, with the fourth hour marker appearing as IIII instead of IV. This is known as the Watchmaker’s Four, and there are many bizarre theories as to why it exists. If you ask a watch designer, they might tell you that the symmetry of the dial is more balanced, but if you ask a 14th century historian, they will tell you that King Charles V of France considered No. IV to be a bad omen. You might answer that it’s because of it. No one knows the truth. One thing is for sure: Roman numerals are found not only in some of the most horologically important watches of recent times, but also in a variety of everyday watches. Here’s a list of the best 8 for every budget.
Timex Waterbury Classic 170th Anniversary Watch
2024 marks Timex’s 170th anniversary and the year it began its journey to bring affordable watches to the masses. It was then called the Waterbury Clock Company and sold the entire production run of one particular pocket watch for the princely sum of just $1 each. In 2024, Timex released 1,000 limited edition watches to celebrate these humble beginnings. As you might have guessed, they cost just $1 each. Of course, they’re all sold out now, but I had to post them here. Who doesn’t love a $1 watch?
The watch body is a classically designed dress watch, the size is 40mm, and the material is stainless steel. Each caseback is engraved with the following messages: “This watch celebrates great watchmaking since 1854” and “A true American icon.” This watch is part of the Waterbury collection and features a bright white dial featuring the Waterbury logo, contrasting Roman numerals, classic cathedral hands, and a day and date window at 3 o’clock. We are prepared. For $1, you can’t go wrong with this, and with only 1,000 pieces made, it’s quickly becoming a sought-after collectible item. Thankfully, you can still get the regular Waterbury Classic without the 170th anniversary logo. Price: $119
Furlan Mali x Time+Tide Outback Elegy
Furlan Marri is a microbrand on the verge of not being a microbrand anymore, exploring vintage style looks and incorporating contemporary levels of quality and finish at more than reasonable prices. The Outback Elegy is a collaboration between Time+Tide and Furlan Marri, celebrating 10 years in business. I have to say this is a very nice approach. Based on Furlan Mari’s Sector series, the Outback Elegy combines 1940s dress watch style with current trends such as a rustic ocher dial. The beautifully polished stainless steel case is in the Goldilocks zone for 37.5mm watches. It fits perfectly on almost any wrist and is completely immune to ever-changing trends, regardless of the current optimal watch size. It’s slim, just over 10mm thick, and the case has corne de vache style lugs, giving it a curvaceous yet mature appeal. Finished in a warm metallic brown that deepens towards the edges, the dial is appliquéd with Roman numerals in a warm rose gold tone. Powering the watch is an automatic LJP G100 with a long 68-hour power reserve. It’s also really cool to flip the watch over and peek through the display case back. If you’re ever near Time+Tide Studios, be sure to check it out. These studios are only available there. Price: A$2,650 (~US$1,750), available from T+T Discovery Studios
longines master collection
The Master Collection is the best-selling collection in the entire Longines range, and for good reason. Available in a number of models with different dial treatments and furnishings, this sunburst black dial model features delicately applied Roman numerals, giving the watch a distinctive edge. The case is 40mm stainless steel with a nice thick bezel, measuring 9.35mm on the wrist which makes the watch look a bit thicker than it actually is. This means you can wear a 40mm size just fine when combined with shorter lugs. The case is closed with a display case back, displaying the ETA 2892-based L888.5 with a simple date function. With its black dial, Roman numerals and classic leaf hands, the Master Collection is perfect for everyday wear or as a special occasion watch, such as a 21st birthday gift. Price: $2,225
cartier tank louis cartier
This list would not be possible without Cartier, the ruler of Roman numeral dials. It was difficult to choose from such an illustrious catalog of incredible pieces, all of which were highly distinguished by distinctive hour markers. For me, there is one watch that eclipses everything in the Cartier series. It’s Tank Louis Cartier. A cultural icon, this model was created by Cartier’s eponymous founder in 1917, and its shape was inspired by the French tanks of World War I. It has graced the wrists of some of the most influential figures in history, including Princess Diana, Andy Warhol, and Muhammad Ali, making it one of the most iconic watches of today. everytime. In its current form, my choice would be a medium-sized yellow gold case, blued steel sword hands, and most importantly, a beaded crown with a cabochon. Over the years, this dial has been revised many times, but the most popular is certainly the famous Roman numeral version, and if you look closely at the 7 o’clock marker you can see Cartier’s secret logo . It’s one of those watches that never goes out of style. Price: From USD 10,200
Chopard Alpine Eagle
You don’t often find sports watches with Roman numerals, but perhaps that’s because they look a little out of place on stainless steel watches designed for modern active lifestyles. Chopard has proven this theory wrong with the Alpine Eagle. Ironically, no one actually uses these fancy “sports watches” for that purpose. Rather, it is now seen more as a piece of jewelry or as an expression of style. Chopard is clearly well aware of this fact, and with the Alpine Eagle they have created a timepiece that has all the features of an everyday sports watch in a sexy and sophisticated package. Measuring 41mm thick on the wrist, it’s not a small watch by any means, but its porthole design and integrated bracelet shape bring the visual size down a notch, especially since it’s only 9.7mm thick. mm. The unique facets of the beautifully finished case are finely brushed and polished. Alpine Eagle has a wide variety of dial options, but our favorite has to be this pine green PVD-coated iris dial. Swirling outward from the center, a unique sunburst motif is adorned with large, blocky Roman numerals, and Chopard has made these classic hour markers in keeping with the watch’s overall style. You did a great job of making it happen. Powering the watch is Chopard’s 01.01-C automatic movement, which is COSC certified and has a 60-hour power reserve. While there are many luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Alpine Eagle is a strong and unique choice. Price: from USD 14,800
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
A. Lange & Söhne The Lange 1 achieves the remarkable distinction of being both contemporary and traditional, expressing the German brand’s creativity and respect for its history. I looked at the Lange 1 and at first I thought the offset dial was a bit disjointed and didn’t make sense, but then it was just a ratio adjustment when for some reason it was actually the other way around. That is the golden ratio. The dial layout with its oversized date, time display with all-important Roman numerals, and second hand subdial are all placed in positions based on this actual natural phenomenon.
It’s no surprise, then, that the Lange 1 became one of the most influential watches of modern times. And that’s even before we talk about finishing. The Lange 1’s flawless casework houses the visually impressive L121.1 hand-wound movement, which has been hand-finished to a breathtaking level of precision. The balance cock is engraved with a Lange-style floral pattern, making each watch unique. The Lange 1 is a shining example of A Lange & Söhne’s capabilities and deserves a spot on this list, as each piece features Roman numerals on the dial of “divine proportions.” Price: From USD 44,700
Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Black Onyx
Laurent Ferrier’s preference is said to be “subtlety and discretion,” and no watch in this series embodies this better than the Classic Tourbillon. At first glance, it looks like a minimalistic black dial watch that only keeps time. Hell, if you can’t handle it, you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s stainless steel – that is until you look a little closer. The 41mm pebble-shaped case is crafted from 18K white gold and features Laurent Ferrier’s signature soft lines and curves. In the center is a dial made of black onyx, a stone brought into battle by the ancient Roman armies, and engraved with a depiction of Mars, the god of war. This is a very subtle relationship with the finely painted Roman numerals that adorn the dial.
Behind the dial hides a complex hand-wound movement. It is a double spiral tourbillon with opposing double balance springs, beautifully decorated and only visible through the caseback. It’s pretty cool to know that under the hood of an understated and stylish sleeping car, there’s something resembling an F1 engine. The Laurent Ferrier Classique Tourbillon is a beautifully crafted contemporary watch with classic elements and beautiful finishes. What more do you need? Price: 180,000 Swiss Francs (~205,000 USD)
Time + Tide Timeless Recommendations: Philippe Dufour Grande and Petit Sonnerie
First introduced in 1992 and the product of decades of development and over two years of craftsmanship on each watch, the Philippe Dufour Grande et Petit Sonnerie is widely regarded as one of the most important wristwatches of all time, The manufacturer is one of the finest watch manufacturers. Until now. One of the most important aspects of this watch is the miniaturization of the minute repeater movement, which was once a reserve for much larger pocket watches. The Grande et Petit Sonnerie is the first wristwatch ever to feature it. It was probably quite large in 1992, but today we can forgive its muscular yet sophisticated proportions.
The wide domed bezel and tapered lugs ensure the case doesn’t draw too much attention and maintains a balanced look. The dial is a fine example of craftsmanship, made from two layers of fired enamel, with a running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, Breguet hands, and, of course, Roman numerals. Beneath the hinged Hunter caseback sits the impressive Sonnerie caliber with a twin barrel arrangement, one for timekeeping and one for striking. All components are hand honed and every surface is chamfered, polished and finished to perfection. It’s simply awe-inspiring to see such craftsmanship, and it’s completely understandable why these pieces have earned Philippe Dufour such a reputation. Dufour’s Grand et Petit Sonnerie No. 1 achieved approximately $5.2 million at the Philips Geneva Watch Auction XIV in November 2021, making it the most expensive independent watch in history (since surpassed by the special FP Journe). ) set a record.
