Borna Bosniak
For most people interested in watches, collecting is a journey. You’ll probably start with a plastic Swatch or Casio, then work your way up to a steel Seiko, and maybe end up with a piece of precious metal. Of course, this is just a generalization, there are many brands that collect many precious metals, and brands often reserve special blends for their most exclusive pieces. Think Lange Honey Gold, Rolex, and Platinum. But there is one material that trumps them all in exclusivity, even though it is actually not valuable by definition. That is tantalum. Although not necessarily as rare as other precious metals, its durability and difficulty in working make it extremely rare and, in turn, highly desirable in watchmaking.
Honorable Mention – Zeros
When it comes to these buying guides, we do our best to cover a wide range of price points as much as possible, but it’s usually not that difficult as there’s value everywhere. However, there aren’t that many notable tantalum watches readily available at affordable prices, so this list will follow a similar path to our guide to affordable tourbillons, for example. But I wanted to give a shout out to Zelos, a micro-brand that continues to bring innovative, high-end case materials to the affordable market segment, and it’s no different with tantalum. For example, the stunning 37mm Zelos Nova, which launched earlier this year (and quickly sold out), retailed for a whopping $2,000 USD and was limited to just 50 pieces. That’s your best bet considering this brand is currently developing some tantalum products, but you may have to wait a little.
hercules tantalum edition
Currently, there is only one model in the Hercules brand lineup, which is based on the mountaineer’s watch that first climbed to the top of Nanga Parbat in 1953. This model is differentiated by the movement that powers it, opting for the Olivier Molly Micro. -Rotor (like the one found on Yema watches), or a La Joux-Perret hand winder. However, you can also choose between a steel case and a tantalum case. The latter is the most affordable tantalum watch I’ve found. You can opt for a fairly basic white dial, or go for this blue carbon dial LE made for an independent watchmaker in Hong Kong. Price: From 9,995 EUR (~11,000 USD)
Sartori Billard SB05
Sartory Billard is a great example of how to leverage multiple top-end suppliers to deliver unique and customizable products. The SB05 is Sartori Billard’s foundation, and apart from the GPHG-nominated SB06 tourbillon, it is the only piece that can be customized with the most exclusive materials, including tantalum. The examples above are just a few examples of what the French brand can do, including Comblémine dials, Vutilainen & Cattin cases, and La Joux-Perret movements. Price: ~30,000 EUR (~33,000 USD for top-spec SB05)
FP Journe Chronometer Blue
Arguably the most well-known tantalum watch, the FP Journe Chronomètre Blue ranges from a highly regarded but often overlooked entry-level model in the Independent catalog to one of the most popular on the secondary market. It became one of my works. The hype is understandable, given the incredible blue dial and chameleon-like nature of the handcrafted solid gold movement. Tantalum cases are truly top-of-the-line products. Price: $42,420
fleming series 1
Similar to Sartori Billard’s way, Thomas Fleming also collaborated with some of the industry’s most respected companies on his debut watch. Series 1 is powered by a François Mojon/Chronode movement beneath a hand-finished Comblémine dial, with engraved bull horn lugs and a tantalum case. Casper Rude seems to have quite good taste. And if you really want to stick to tantalum, you can also work with the Alternative Horological Alliance (Fleming, Ming, JN Shapiro) to make you a complete tantalum bracelet. Price: CHF 45,500 (~USD 53,000)
JN Shapiro’s Resurrection
JN Shapiro has been at the forefront of bringing watchmaking back to America for some time, and his latest model, the Resurgence, has accomplished just that. All components (except the jewels and springs) are manufactured in-house in California to a frankly ridiculous standard of decoration. Shapiro is best known for his mastery of dial decoration and guilloché, which is on full display here. The movement wheels are made of 14K gold with rounded spokes and the best internal corners of any watch. The tantalum case option may seem like an afterthought, but it’s anything but, except for the stunning engine-spun barley pattern running down the side. Price: $80,000
H. Moser Endeavor Perpetual Calendar Tantalum
The Endeavor Perpetual Calendar is a very unique watch with a minimalist, unbranded dial, especially since it is a very complicated watch. But H. Moser took it a step further and paired it with a stunning blue enamel dial and tantalum case. It was inspired by a tantalum-cased watch given to CEO Edouard Meylan for his 18th birthday. The thick 42mm x 13.1mm case is bulkier due to the inherent weight of Moser’s choice of material, although the caseback and crown remain made of steel. Price: 75,000 Swiss Francs (~87,000 USD)
Time+Tide Timeless Pick: MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome Hourglass
I debated for a long time about which watch to choose for this spot, but ultimately settled on the MB&F and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 1, the first watch to use tantalum. 66270TT. However, the latter was actually two-tone (titanium and tantalum), thus breaking the rules of battle and handing the victory to MB&F. But with a movement co-developed by Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilainen and an aventurine or blue guilloché dial, the Legacy Machine Thunderdome makes few compromises. This limited edition of 10 pieces created for The Hour Glass has a super cool design thanks to the tantalum case construction that perfectly complements the blue tone of the dial. Price (retail, sold out): SGD 397,000 (~USD 300,000)
