Buffy Acacia
Historically, Stainless steel is a modern miracleWhile we now take for granted the abundance of materials that are strong, rust-resistant, and relatively easy to work with, this wasn’t the case back in the day. For thousands of years, precious metals have been prized for their resistance to corrosion, their relative rarity, and of course, their beauty. Gold, for lack of a better way to say it, remains on the gold standard.On the other hand, silver During the era of pocket watches, it was widely used as a material for watch cases.But it quickly fell out of use in the 20th century. Now, major brands like Tudor are returning to sterling silver as a case material, which could signal a new trend. Will silver be the next big thing in watches? Here are five of the best examples and you can decide for yourself.
Sinn 1739 Ag B
Sinn is not a brand that many people think of when thinking of dress watches.but maybe they should. The 1739 Ag B is an attractive design, with fluted trumpet-shaped indexes and hands that make it unique and different from other dress watches. But it’s subtle enough not to go too far. The applied Sinn logo and sectored blue sunburst dial create an eye-catching richness, and the 39mm case is made from 935 Argentium Silver. Argentium Silver is a patented alloy that introduces germanium to prevent tarnishing and has a higher purity of silver than the standard 92.5% mix of sterling silver and copper. The automatic caliber SW300-1 allows for a case thickness of 9.1mm and a 4Hz vibration frequency with a 42-hour power reserve. Price: USD 2,680
Tudor Black Bay 58 925
The Tudor Black Bay 58 925 is one of the most recent watches on this list. It is gaining attention among watch collectors.Tudor, a subsidiary of Rolex and a quasi-successor to the brand, has become one of the most popular watchmakers in recent years. The move to sterling silver cases was a completely unexpected one, catching the attention of many as a material for diver’s watches. Although silver is resistant to corrosion, it does tarnish. Moisture will speed up the tarnishing process, but the smoky, taupe-and-gray tones of the dial and bezel are exactly the effect Tudor was going for. The ability to achieve an aged look is the greatest appeal of bronze watches, so Tudor has recaptured that spirit in the white metal arena. Price: USD 4,650
James Lamb Origin Series
For many of the big watch brands, choosing a material for a watch is as simple as changing the block that is machined. Sure, tools and lubricants may need to be replaced as well, but case parts are almost always machined by computer programs. Not so with James Lamb. UK-based independent watchmaker James Lamb creates these cases using traditional silversmithing techniques and hand tools. Each case is perfectly imperfect, showcasing the passion that goes into every model. And even the dials, limited to 50 pieces, are made from beautiful champlevé enamel silver based on the four seasons. James Lamb uses tarnish-resistant 935 Argentium silver, and the movement is a modest Sellita SW200-1, but you’re paying for the craftsmanship of the case and dial. Price: USD 8,900
Ox & Jr. Day/Night
Celebrating its 18th anniversary this year, Ochs & Junior is only just coming of age, figuratively speaking, as a watch brand. Ludwig Oechslin, creator of the Ulysse Nardin Freakand co-founded with Beat Weinmann. Exslin has also restored the Vatican Library’s astronomical clock, recreated the island of Antikythera, and advanced perpetual calendar technology, so there’s no questioning his talent for watchmaking. The Day/Night is an absolute masterpiece of minimalist design with amazing functionality. Not only does it divide the day and night into two blocks of 12 hours each, but it also accurately displays sunrise, sunset, noon, and solstice, and can instantly adjust for daylight saving time. These watches are made to order and personalized to your location anywhere in the world, and can be updated if you move internationally in the future. The base movement is the Ulysse Nardin UN-320, customized with 13 parts designed by Exslin. Available in grade 5 titanium or of course 925 sterling silver. Price: CHF 19,600 (starting price for the 925 case, approx. US$22,645)
Time+Tide Timeless Pick: Must de Cartier Tank
During the quartz crisis of the 1970sCartier created a sub-collection called Must de Cartier that focused on more affordable watches for the general public. It was especially successful due to its use of quartz movements and sterling silver cases, which were much more affordable than solid gold but were still considered precious. Admittedly, some vermeil (the term for gold-plated sterling silver) examples have aged better as the gold plating has worn off, but plain sterling silver cases have aged just as gracefully as a vintage Cartier Tank. Decades later, these watches are still a great affordable alternative to a brand new Cartier and were produced well into the 2000s. On a design level, It’s pretty hard to beat a tank..
