Of course, you’re also familiar with Omega and perhaps Armin Strom. But did you know that Armin Strom, the founder of the brand of the same name, once worked with all the skeletons of Omega in the 1990s?
Skeleton clock
The art of skeletalization of movement is old and we still see it on a variety of watches. However, while not all skeleton watches are the same, some people can remove some of the dial to get a glimpse of the movement. Others barely have a dial left, so they show the whole movement. But it’s not very fun (or interesting) in many cases, especially when you look at the basic movements from the dial side. Therefore, a good skeletonization job requires work on both sides of the movement.
First, the craftsmen cut off as many unnecessary parts and surfaces as possible from the caliber to demonstrate the inner workings of the movement. After that, the rest is finished and engraved at the highest level. That often makes these watches stand out. You can also purchase a simple skeletonized mechanical watch with very basic decorations and finishes, but you can also purchase ones that are hand-carved and finished.
Armin Strom (1938 – 2024)
Master Skeletonizer Armin Strom
Armin Strom (who died last December at the age of 86) founded the company in 1967. Until 1984, his works were all made up of skeletalization, decoration and sculpture from existing clocks by hand. Armin Strom Watch. Strom, considered a Master Skeletonizer, sold the company in 2006, but was involved until 2011. Today, the Armin Strom brand continues to make use of its founders’ value. That’s why modern Armin Strom Watches are constantly showing their movements.
Platinum Omega Speedmaster Professional Skeleton 3097.30
In the 1990s, Armin Strom still carried out skeletonization work for others. In this case it was for the Omega Watch Company, located in the same village of Bier/Bienne, Switzerland. You can find the Omega Seamaster 300M model with skeletonized movement since the 1990s, but there is also this rare 1994 Platinum Speedmaster Professional Ref. 3097.30 The 25th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission. During this mission, NASA astronaut Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the moon with an Omega Speedmaster Professional Ref. 105.012 on his wrist. In 1992, Armin Strom skeletonized Yellow Gold Speedmaster experts to commemorate the 27 Chro C12 movement.
1992 Omega Speedmaster Gold Skeleton 3696.50.81. Images via Coinwatch
“It was a series of 50 watches,” says Claude Graceler, a watchmaker trained by Armin Strom. “It was created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the 27 Chro C12 project. The success surprised Omega and Armin Strom. Shortly after the fair opened, the phone rang out at Armin Strom’s house. Someone from Omega , I was thinking immediately to tell him that the project was a complete flop and that he had no interest in the extremely expensive speedmaster of openworking precious metals. He was wrong. The watch quickly hit. , Omega assignments continued.”
Omega gave a limited edition of several different Apollo 11s in 1994, including one set in steel, white gold, platinum and platinum in baguettes. Armin Strom worked on both the Platinum (50 pieces) and the Platinum (10 pieces) baguette set version.
Caliber 867
Caliber 867
Strom skeletonized, engraved, decorative omega caliber 861. Omega is called the result caliber 867. This is the same movement in yellow gold within the 1992 Speedmaster Professional (3696.50), but the Strom used different sculptures and plated the movement with radium. This 1994 Speedmaster Professional in Platinum was available in leather straps (reference 3097.30) and Platinum bracelets (reference 3096.30). It is unknown how many of them were individually made.
Brown book box
Omega engraved the text on the watch’s case band with the following to commemorate that particular mission: “1969-1994 Apollo XI.” You can also find this sculpture in other 1994 Apollo 11 Limited Editions. As mentioned before, these limited editions were available in steel, white gold and platinum.
Full set
Just like the White Gold Edition, Omega delivered 3097.30 and 3096.30 in a brown book-shaped box. While mentioning white gold, look at the crown and pushers. Omega made them out of 18K white gold for this platinum watch.
Very rare speedmaster
Omega only made 50 of the platinum skeletonized Speedmaster professionals, so it’s rare to come across sales or auctions. Famous vintage watch dealer Davidoff Brothers currently offers 16 of this 50 in new, old stock status at the company’s boutique in Geneva. This Speedmaster 3097.30 comes with all the boxes and documents, and even has blue protective paint on the caseback. Click here for the list.
Will it work today?
What I find interesting about this watch is that Omega worked together outside of the group that saw the example in the 1990s. Today we only see these collaborations between almost (small) independent watchmakers. How wonderful is it when Omega works with today’s Armin Strom Company or another Master Skeleton Naser to come up with a new Skeletonized Speedmaster Professional?
*Thank you to Roy Davidoff for providing this Speed-Master 3097.30 image from 1994.
